ITADAKI ATLAS

Home-style

Himeichi to Mikan no Karashini

Himeichi to Mikan no Karashini — a small sea-bream stand-in simmered with citrus peel and hot mustard

Himeichi, a small fish caught in Tosa Bay, is simmered slowly over low heat with seeded hot mustard and citrus peel. Prized as an affordable stand-in for sea bream, the long simmer softens even the bones, and it was traditionally made in bulk at year's end to keep through the season.

  • Origin: Kochi
  • About 620 km west of Tokyo
Kochi

What it's made of

The sharp bite of mustard mingles with citrus fragrance, and the white flesh, simmered until the very bones soften, falls apart at a touch, it is said. Himeichi is a small fish caught in Tosa Bay's small trawl nets, formally known as goldband goatfish. Its flesh is mild and refined, and because it was inexpensive, it is said to have often stood in for sea bream. The smallest fish in particular are said to be simmered slowly over low heat with deseeded mustard and mandarin peel, a preparation known as karashini, or mustard stew.

How it's made

Himeichi, scaled and gutted, is simmered slowly over low heat together with deseeded mustard. Mandarin peel, boiled, minced, and soaked overnight, is added along with seasoning, and the dish is simmered over low heat until the liquid is gone. Cooking it with mustard is said to soften even the bones, and preparations vary by area — some use yuzu or bushukan citrus instead, others add ryukyu stem.

Why it took this shape

Because the whole fish, bones and all, can be eaten and it keeps well, it is said to have often been made as a preserved dish back when fresh himeichi was cheap and plentiful. Fish brought by traveling peddlers was not always fresh, and on those occasions it is said to have been simmered for days over a charcoal brazier. The custom of making a large batch at year's end took such hold that people are said to have remarked the year couldn't properly close without it, and it was also said to be a standard addition to boxed lunches.

Before you go

Dishes in the same style

Ingredients and dishes from this land

Also from Kochi

Everything from Kochi

Report a correction