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Himeichi to Mikan no Karashini
Himeichi to Mikan no Karashini — a small sea-bream stand-in simmered with citrus peel and hot mustard
Himeichi, a small fish caught in Tosa Bay, is simmered slowly over low heat with seeded hot mustard and citrus peel. Prized as an affordable stand-in for sea bream, the long simmer softens even the bones, and it was traditionally made in bulk at year's end to keep through the season.
- Origin: Kochi
- About 620 km west of Tokyo
What it's made of
The sharp bite of mustard mingles with citrus fragrance, and the white flesh, simmered until the very bones soften, falls apart at a touch, it is said. Himeichi is a small fish caught in Tosa Bay's small trawl nets, formally known as goldband goatfish. Its flesh is mild and refined, and because it was inexpensive, it is said to have often stood in for sea bream. The smallest fish in particular are said to be simmered slowly over low heat with deseeded mustard and mandarin peel, a preparation known as karashini, or mustard stew.
How it's made
Himeichi, scaled and gutted, is simmered slowly over low heat together with deseeded mustard. Mandarin peel, boiled, minced, and soaked overnight, is added along with seasoning, and the dish is simmered over low heat until the liquid is gone. Cooking it with mustard is said to soften even the bones, and preparations vary by area — some use yuzu or bushukan citrus instead, others add ryukyu stem.
Why it took this shape
Because the whole fish, bones and all, can be eaten and it keeps well, it is said to have often been made as a preserved dish back when fresh himeichi was cheap and plentiful. Fish brought by traveling peddlers was not always fresh, and on those occasions it is said to have been simmered for days over a charcoal brazier. The custom of making a large batch at year's end took such hold that people are said to have remarked the year couldn't properly close without it, and it was also said to be a standard addition to boxed lunches.
Before you go
- How to shop at a supermarketHow to choose prepared foods, sashimi, and packaged sushi, when discount stickers tend to appear, region-only specialties, buying by weight, the checkout and bagging flow, and sampling etiquette at a local supermarket.
- Food for Obon and the harvest moon (tsukimi)A guide to the meat-free shojin ryori and somen served at Obon, and the tsukimi dango offered on the night of the harvest moon.
- At teishoku diners, shokudo, and machi-chukaA guide to the teishoku set-meal format, free rice refills, table placement, and paying at a shokudo-style diner.
Dishes in the same style
- Agonoko UmaniThe roe of egg-bearing flying fish, caught only in early summer, is simmered in stock and soy sauce as an Oki bar snack. Its large grains and dense, sticky texture are prized as a delicacy said to be scarcer even than the fish's flesh.
- Funa MisoCrucian carp is simmered slowly with soybeans for around five hours, then finished in a sauce of red miso and coarse sugar. A freshwater fish dish of the Kiso rivers' lower basin, made with fatty winter carp simmered until the bones soften through.
Ingredients and dishes from this land
Also from Kochi
- Chate no AemonoChayote, a squash-family vine native to tropical America and known locally as chate, is tossed raw into a light dressing — an autumn home dish in Kochi. A single vine can bear over a hundred fruit, so it's mostly grown for the household or shared with neighbors, and it's especially popular in the mountains where it grows easily.
- Chunichi SobaA local noodle dish from Akaoka, Kochi's Konan City, pairing Chinese noodles with udon stock. Dried baby sardines and shredded kelp are the standard toppings, said to have grown from a shortcut sparing the effort of both udon and ramen kitchens.
- Ginburo ZushiGinburo, a kidney bean grown only for home use in a district of Otoyo Town, is simmered sweet and folded into vinegared rice with root vegetables. Regarded as a bean of long life and good fortune, it's traditionally made for festivals and celebratory banquets.
- GoishichaA post-fermented tea from Otoyo, Kochi Prefecture, made through two stages of fermentation — an aerobic mold fermentation followed by a lactic acid soak. Named for its square-cut, sun-dried pieces said to resemble go stones, it carries a distinctive sweet-and-sour flavor.
- GuruniDaikon, carrot, taro, and other root vegetables are simmered together in a dashi made from dried baby sardines and soy sauce — a winter side dish. The name is said to come from "guru," Tosa dialect for a group of companions, and the dish was long made in bulk and reheated meal after meal.
- Ha Ninniku no NutaGarlic greens are chopped, ground, and mixed with miso, vinegar, sesame, and sugar — a traditional Kochi condiment said to trace back to a Korean import. It's commonly spooned over raw fish like yellowtail in place of soy sauce, and both its name and the fish it accompanies vary by area.