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Guruni
Guruni — a big-batch winter simmer of daikon, taro, and whatever root vegetable was on hand
Daikon, carrot, taro, and other root vegetables are simmered together in a dashi made from dried baby sardines and soy sauce — a winter side dish. The name is said to come from "guru," Tosa dialect for a group of companions, and the dish was long made in bulk and reheated meal after meal.
- Origin: Kochi
- About 620 km west of Tokyo
What it's made of
Root vegetables of winter — daikon, carrot, taro — are diced and simmered lightly in a stock of small dried fish and soy sauce, a plain, homely dish. Guru is a Tosa dialect word meaning companions or everyone, and the name is said to come from throwing whatever vegetables were at hand into the pot together. It is said to have originally used six ingredients, a nod to the six characters of the Buddhist invocation Namu Amida Butsu, and depending on the area it is also known as oguru, or as itokoni, 'cousin stew,' when nine ingredients are gathered.
How it's made
Daikon, carrot, taro, and other root vegetables are diced. They are simmered in a large pot of stock made from small dried fish, then seasoned with soy sauce. Simmering it again and again is said to let the flavor soak deeper into the vegetables, and many households are said to make a large batch at once and eat from it over several days. In some areas it is seasoned with miso instead.
Why it took this shape
In times when gathering food took far more effort than it does now, the dish is said to have taken root as something made in large batches from whatever vegetables were on hand, then reheated again and again. Old customs such as cutting everything into small cubes and always including a potato are said to be carried on today. Beyond including some form of potato, there is said to be no strict rule, so ingredients and seasoning vary by household, and in Tosa City it is said to be called itokoni once nine ingredients come together.
Before you go
- How to shop at a supermarketHow to choose prepared foods, sashimi, and packaged sushi, when discount stickers tend to appear, region-only specialties, buying by weight, the checkout and bagging flow, and sampling etiquette at a local supermarket.
- Food for Obon and the harvest moon (tsukimi)A guide to the meat-free shojin ryori and somen served at Obon, and the tsukimi dango offered on the night of the harvest moon.
- At teishoku diners, shokudo, and machi-chukaA guide to the teishoku set-meal format, free rice refills, table placement, and paying at a shokudo-style diner.
Dishes in the same style
- Agonoko UmaniThe roe of egg-bearing flying fish, caught only in early summer, is simmered in stock and soy sauce as an Oki bar snack. Its large grains and dense, sticky texture are prized as a delicacy said to be scarcer even than the fish's flesh.
- Funa MisoCrucian carp is simmered slowly with soybeans for around five hours, then finished in a sauce of red miso and coarse sugar. A freshwater fish dish of the Kiso rivers' lower basin, made with fatty winter carp simmered until the bones soften through.
Ingredients and dishes from this land
Contrast
- Taimo no KorobashiTaro, called taimo in Kochi, is slowly simmered down in soy sauce and sugar, then rolled in roasted sesame — a dish from Sakawa Town. The name is said to come from rolling the taro over the sesame, and as a symbol of a family's growing lineage, it also appears on festive sawachi platters.
- Hachiku to Endo no NimonoHachiku, a slender, purple-tinged bamboo shoot with a mild flavor, is simmered in dashi and finished with fresh green peas just coming into season — an early-summer simmered dish in Kochi. It pairs hachiku, which follows the earlier moso bamboo to market, with peas harvested around the same time.
Also from Kochi
- Chate no AemonoChayote, a squash-family vine native to tropical America and known locally as chate, is tossed raw into a light dressing — an autumn home dish in Kochi. A single vine can bear over a hundred fruit, so it's mostly grown for the household or shared with neighbors, and it's especially popular in the mountains where it grows easily.
- Chunichi SobaA local noodle dish from Akaoka, Kochi's Konan City, pairing Chinese noodles with udon stock. Dried baby sardines and shredded kelp are the standard toppings, said to have grown from a shortcut sparing the effort of both udon and ramen kitchens.
- Ginburo ZushiGinburo, a kidney bean grown only for home use in a district of Otoyo Town, is simmered sweet and folded into vinegared rice with root vegetables. Regarded as a bean of long life and good fortune, it's traditionally made for festivals and celebratory banquets.
- GoishichaA post-fermented tea from Otoyo, Kochi Prefecture, made through two stages of fermentation — an aerobic mold fermentation followed by a lactic acid soak. Named for its square-cut, sun-dried pieces said to resemble go stones, it carries a distinctive sweet-and-sour flavor.
- Ha Ninniku no NutaGarlic greens are chopped, ground, and mixed with miso, vinegar, sesame, and sugar — a traditional Kochi condiment said to trace back to a Korean import. It's commonly spooned over raw fish like yellowtail in place of soy sauce, and both its name and the fish it accompanies vary by area.