ITADAKI ATLAS

Seafood ── Fish

Kasago

marbled rockfish — a spiny, big-headed fish for soup and stew

A big-headed fish of rocky reefs whose bones give off a rich stock, so it is often simmered or served whole in clear soup. Sedentary by nature, it varies noticeably by fishing ground and is mostly eaten as a local catch near where it's landed.

  • White fish

Lineage

What it's made of

A big-headed fish of rocky reefs whose fierce look belies a mild, delicate white flesh. The bones give off a rich stock, so simmering it or serving it in clear soup lets that flavor soak into the broth. The skin keeps a faint tidal aroma, and the contrast between skin and flesh is part of the appeal. With few small bones, it's often favored as an easy white fish even for children.

How it's made

Sedentary and content to lodge in a crack in the rocks, it's said to vary noticeably in flavor from one fishing ground to the next. Cooks lean into the bones' rich stock by simmering or poaching the whole fish in clear soup, eating it head, bones and all. For sashimi, it's sometimes thinly sliced with the skin lightly seared, a style called 'matsukawa', for extra fragrance.

Why it took this shape

Because it stays put in the reef rather than roaming, the same species can taste noticeably different depending on where it's caught, or so it's said. That makes it a poor fit for wide distribution, so it's mostly eaten as a 'local fish' near where it's landed — quietly prized port by port. Grounds thick with rocky crevices are said to be the ones it favors most as hiding places.

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