ITADAKI ATLAS

Seafood ── Fish

Hobo

gurnard — a spiny, winged fish valued for its firm winter flesh

A fish that spreads its wing-like pectoral fins to 'walk' along the seabed, fattening in winter. Its delicate white flesh goes into sashimi or clear soup, and it favors calm, sandy-bottomed bays, where it has long been eaten as a local catch.

  • White fish

What it's made of

It spreads wing-like pectoral fins wide, and despite its red skin, the flesh underneath is a fine white meat. It's said to carry strong umami along with plenty of fat, protein and minerals. In the Edo period it was prized enough to be offered up to feudal lords as a 'lord's fish', and it has also served as a celebratory dish. Its bones are hard but give off a good stock, prized for hot pot and clear soup alike.

How it's made

It's taken by bottom trawl, worked either by two boats together or by a single boat alone. It suits everything from sashimi and simmering to deep-frying, hot pot, and drying, and among fishers, simmered hobo is the everyday favorite. It's sometimes presented whole with its fins spread, prized as much for the display as the taste.

Why it took this shape

It favors calm bays with a sandy, muddy seabed, and ports with that kind of terrain have long landed it steadily, or so it's said. Ranked highly enough to be offered up in the Edo period, and used as a celebratory fish for its red color, it has long reached the table as a prized local catch. Its range, from shallow water down to 600 meters, is also said to reflect real adaptability.

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