ITADAKI ATLAS

Seafood ── Fish

Mebaru

rockfish — a bulge-eyed fish that signals spring

A large-eyed fish of rocky reefs, said to herald spring. Traditionally simmered until the seasoning reaches the bone — areas facing well-flushed rocky grounds like the Seto Inland Sea have woven it deeply into local food culture.

  • White fish

Lineage

MebaruKasago

What it's made of

Its name is said to come from its bulging, oversized eyes, and it has long been read as a sign that spring has arrived. The flesh is firm and white, with a faint layer of fat just under the skin. Simmered, the seasoning reaches all the way to the bone, and it flakes soft and full when picked apart with chopsticks. The skin carries a faint tidal aroma that plays off the flesh underneath.

How it's made

Because it tends to hide in reef crevices rather than roam, the standard way to cook it is whole, simmered so the broth pulls flavor straight from the bone. Slow-simmered in soy sauce and sake, the meat closest to the bone is said to carry the deepest flavor, and the whole fish — head, bones and all — is eaten with little left behind. Even the meat around the eyes is said to carry real flavor, worth picking out with care.

Why it took this shape

The rocky reefs of the Seto Inland Sea are well flushed by the tide, offering mebaru plenty of places to hide, or so the reasoning goes. Along the Seto Inland Sea coast, mebaru is prized as a local fish that announces spring, and an early-spring simmered mebaru is read as a small seasonal announcement — one of the fish most closely tied to the region's identity. The rocky, shallow terrain itself is said to be what raised this fish.

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