ITADAKI ATLAS

Seafood ── Fish

Kisu

Japanese whiting — a light summer fish taken from sandy shallows

A white-fleshed fish of sandy shallows, best known as a tempura staple. Mild and thin-fleshed, it fries through quickly, and shallow-bay towns have also long prized it as a favorite target for shore anglers.

  • White fish

Lineage

What it's made of

It burrows into sandy shallows in muted colors that hide it well, yet the flesh is a startling white with a delicate sweetness. Low in fat, it steams light and airy inside tempura batter. At its best in summer, its thin body fries through quickly, making it one of the easier tempura fish to handle, and it's often named as the classic Edomae tempura standard-bearer.

How it's made

It has long been a favorite target for shore anglers casting from sandy beaches — anyone with a rod off a jetty can take a shot at it. For tempura, the standard is to fillet out the bones and coat it thin, since the thin flesh also means it's easy to overfry. Some places also serve it raw, as sashimi or dressed in vinegar, to let its plainness speak for itself.

Why it took this shape

Towns facing shallow, gently sloped bays offer wide stretches of sandy bottom where kisu is said to thrive. In a shallow-water town like Hamamatsu, it has long been a favorite of shore anglers casting from the beach, and it lands on the table fresh-fried as tempura — a small marker of summer. The sheer breadth of sandy ground is said to be what keeps the catch stable year after year.

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