ITADAKI ATLAS

Grilled ── Yakitori

Tebanaka

chicken mid-wing — halved lengthwise it becomes a "chicken rib"

The middle section between the wing tip and the drumette. Split lengthwise it is called a "chicken spare rib", commonly served skewered or deep-fried, and smaller and easier to handle than the wing tip.

Tebanaka

Lineage

What it's made of

The middle section between the wing tip and the drumette, smaller and easier to handle than the tip. Split lengthwise, it's called a "chicken spare rib" — its meat-around-bone shape recalling actual pork spare ribs. It carries less gelatin than the wing tip, giving it an easier balance of fat and lean meat. It's not as fatty as the wing tip, but each bite carries a good balance of meat and fat.

How it's made

It's commonly served skewered or deep-fried, and with less fat and gelatin than the wing tip, it cooks through faster even over a short time. Splitting it lengthwise takes a careful cut along the bone, but its size makes it manageable for home cooking too. Two bones run side by side through it, so how the meat sits can differ slightly depending on exactly where it's split. Starting it skin-side down on the grill is said to render the fat evenly for a more fragrant finish.

Why it took this shape

Sitting between the wing tip and drumette, inheriting a bit of each one's character, it's carved out a place that works equally well at a skewer counter or a home stove. The "chicken spare rib" name is said to have caught on because the fun of gnawing bone-in meat echoes actual pork spare ribs. Bridging both ends of the wing, its main virtue is simply being an easy, unfussy cut to work with. It's a fixture at both skewer counters and fried-chicken shops alike, comfortable with a wide range of cooking methods.

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