Sweets ── Wagashi (Japanese sweets)
Sanshoku Dango
Sanshoku dango — three-colored dango skewered in pink, white, and green
Dango in pink, white, and green skewered together on one stick. One account traces it to a flower-viewing party held at Kyoto's Daigo-ji temple in the Azuchi-Momoyama period, where Toyotomi Hideyoshi is said to have had colorful dango made for the women in attendance.
- Origin: Kyoto Kyoto (Fushimi Ward)
- Mochi and dango
- About 370 km west of Tokyo
Lineage
What it's made of
Three dango, colored pink, white, and green, skewered together — nothing more. Pink is often flavored with cherry blossom, white left as plain rice, and green colored with mugwort or matcha; the point is the color and texture of the dango itself, without paste or glaze. Also called "hanami dango" (blossom-viewing dango), it is said to be enjoyed year-round, not only during cherry blossom season, as a sweet that evokes a spring feeling. There is no strict rule fixing the order or exact shades of the three colors, and the arrangement is said to vary by shop's own taste.
How it's made
Rice-flour dough is divided into three, with pink tinted by food coloring or cherry-blossom flavoring and green worked with mugwort or matcha. Each portion is rolled into balls and boiled or steamed, then skewered together in the order pink, white, green. Unless all three colored doughs are worked to the same firmness, the shapes shift once skewered together — an unglamorous but painstaking step in preparation. Steaming time can differ slightly between the three colors, and timing them to finish together is said to be where a maker's skill shows.
Why it took this shape
One account holds that at a flower-viewing party held by Toyotomi Hideyoshi at Kyoto's Daigo-ji temple in the Azuchi-Momoyama period, he had colorful dango devised for the women present, in place of the plain white dango glazed with soy sauce that had been standard until then. The three colors are also said, in one telling, to represent the passage from spring to summer — cherry blossoms, snow, and fresh green leaves. The skewered form, easy to hand around at a flower-viewing party, is also said to be a device for sharing easily among a crowd.
Before you go
- How to shop in a depachika (department store food hall)A guide to browsing prepared foods and bento, choosing wagashi as a gift with a good shelf life, sampling etiquette, end-of-day discounts, asking for cold packs and wrapping, and finding your way around a depachika floor.
- Enjoying a bussanten (regional products fair)A guide to what's sold at a bussanten (regional products fair), how to find one, when it gets crowded, shelf life and taking food home, and how to fit one around a trip.
- Osechi and zoni for the New YearA guide to the meaning behind osechi's tiered boxes, the regional differences in zoni (square vs. round mochi, clear vs. miso broth), and the nanakusa-gayu custom.
Dishes in the same style
- Ohagi / BotamochiLightly pounded rice coated in sweet bean paste, offered at the equinox. The speckled look of chunky bean paste is said to have been likened to bush clover blossoms in autumn — hence "ohagi" — and to peonies in spring, giving "botamochi."
- DaifukuOne of the most basic shapes in wagashi: pounded mochi wrapped around sweet bean paste. A thick, saltier mochi called "harabuto-mochi" is said to have been eaten in the Edo period, later shrinking into the handheld "daifuku-mochi" known today.
Ingredients and dishes from this land
Also from Kyoto
- Chirimen SanshoChirimen-jako simmered sweet-salty with fresh sansho peppercorns in sake, soy sauce, and mirin — a Kyoto side dish said to have begun as a cook's gift in the mid-Showa era. The peppercorns leave a sharp, fragrant aftertaste.
- Ebiimo to Bodara no TaitanEbi-imo, a striped Kyoto heirloom taro named for its shrimp-like ridges, simmers together with bodara, cod dried in Hokkaido. Gelatin from the dried cod is said to keep the taro from falling apart, while the taro's bitterness softens the cod — a textbook 'deaimon' pairing.
- Fushimi no SakeSake from Fushimi in Kyoto, a district fed by groundwater from the Momoyama plateau. Its water is said to be softer than Nada's, giving a round mouthfeel and gentle, full sweetness that overlaps with the profile recognized under the GI Kyoto geographical indication.
- GanmodokiTofu mixed with vegetables, rolled into balls, and fried. Known in Kyoto as hirousu or hiryōzu, thought to have taken this form through the vegetarian temple-cooking idea of a filling dish made without meat.
- Hamo no YakimonoPike conger, riddled with fine bones, is scored with the skilled honekiri cut and then grilled — teriyaki-glazed or salted — in Kyoto cuisine. Said to have taken root in landlocked Kyoto because the hardy fish could be carried in alive, it is also a festival food for Gion Matsuri, nicknamed the 'hamo festival.'
- Kamonasu DengakuKamonasu, a round Kyoto heirloom eggplant over 10cm across sometimes called the 'queen of eggplants,' is sliced and pan-fried in plenty of oil, then topped with a sweet miso reduced with sake and mirin. It is said to have long been grown on the alluvial fan of Kamigamo.