ITADAKI ATLAS

Rice dishes ── Sushi

Bo-zushi

fish and rice rolled bar-shaped with a bamboo mat

Vinegar-cured fish laid over rice and rolled bar-shaped with a bamboo mat before slicing — a form of pressed sushi seen in Kyoto's saba-zushi and regional saury and mackerel versions elsewhere.

Lineage

What it's made of

Fish cured in salt and vinegar, kept in a single fillet, is laid over rice and rolled bar-shaped with firm pressure from a bamboo mat. Unlike box-pressed hako-zushi's square edges, this comes out rounded and log-shaped, and each slice shows an oval cross-section capped by the fish's skin. Oily-skinned fish like mackerel and saury are the usual choice.

How it's made

Fish is boned, salted, then cured further in vinegar. Laid skin-side up over rice, it's rolled tight with a bamboo mat, pulled firm from the near edge, and shaped into a log. Left briefly to let the flavors settle, it's then sliced into rounds about two centimeters wide.

Why it took this shape

It's thought to have developed in places far from the sea, as a way of carrying fish cured with salt and vinegar to keep it, then pairing it with rice once it arrived. Rolling it bar-shaped kept the fish from falling apart while allowing even, uniform slices — a way to serve a hard-won fish without waste, said to survive today in Kyoto's saba-zushi and regional celebration sushi elsewhere.

Before you go

Report a correction