ITADAKI ATLAS

Rice dishes

Ochagai

Ochagai — rice porridge simmered in brewed tea instead of water

Rice porridge is simmered not in water but brewed tea — said to have begun with an austerity order from the cash-strapped Saga domain in its final years. The tea leaves it thin and light, and it's said to have fed the many live-in staff of merchant houses.

  • Origin: Saga
  • About 910 km west of Tokyo
Saga

What it's made of

This porridge is cooked in roasted or powdered green tea rather than water; unlike plain rice porridge, it carries the tea's flavor and finishes light and smooth, since the tea is said to keep it from turning sticky. Sweet potato is sometimes added depending on the season, turning it into a potato porridge, and it's also said to be good served chilled in summer. It's said to have taken root as a food custom mainly along the Ariake coast. In one hot-spring town it's said to be made with locally grown tea.

How it's made

Water is boiled and roasted tea added to make a tea broth, into which washed rice is added and cooked. There's also a method using leftover rice with tea leaves in a bag simmered in, and sweet potato is sometimes added to bulk it out depending on the season. Watching the heat carefully so it doesn't boil over is said to be the key step. It's also described as a clever way to make use of tea leaves already brewed once. There's also a method of simmering leftover cold rice directly in hot water.

Why it took this shape

The dish is said to have grown out of a spirit of thrift toward rice. In merchant households with many employees, it's said to have been served for breakfast using the previous night's cold rice and tea leaves already brewed once. It can still be found today served at breakfast in some inns around the prefecture, and in tea-growing towns it's said to be made with locally grown tea. It's said to have been made at home less often as the economy grew.

Before you go

Dishes in the same style

Ingredients and dishes from this land

Also from Saga

Everything from Saga

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