Rice dishes
Ochagai
Ochagai — rice porridge simmered in brewed tea instead of water
Rice porridge is simmered not in water but brewed tea — said to have begun with an austerity order from the cash-strapped Saga domain in its final years. The tea leaves it thin and light, and it's said to have fed the many live-in staff of merchant houses.
- Origin: Saga
- About 910 km west of Tokyo
What it's made of
This porridge is cooked in roasted or powdered green tea rather than water; unlike plain rice porridge, it carries the tea's flavor and finishes light and smooth, since the tea is said to keep it from turning sticky. Sweet potato is sometimes added depending on the season, turning it into a potato porridge, and it's also said to be good served chilled in summer. It's said to have taken root as a food custom mainly along the Ariake coast. In one hot-spring town it's said to be made with locally grown tea.
How it's made
Water is boiled and roasted tea added to make a tea broth, into which washed rice is added and cooked. There's also a method using leftover rice with tea leaves in a bag simmered in, and sweet potato is sometimes added to bulk it out depending on the season. Watching the heat carefully so it doesn't boil over is said to be the key step. It's also described as a clever way to make use of tea leaves already brewed once. There's also a method of simmering leftover cold rice directly in hot water.
Why it took this shape
The dish is said to have grown out of a spirit of thrift toward rice. In merchant households with many employees, it's said to have been served for breakfast using the previous night's cold rice and tea leaves already brewed once. It can still be found today served at breakfast in some inns around the prefecture, and in tea-growing towns it's said to be made with locally grown tea. It's said to have been made at home less often as the economy grew.
Before you go
- How to use a convenience storeA quick guide to choosing rice balls and hot snacks, buying coffee, paying by cash, IC card, or tap payment, using the eat-in corner, and sorting your trash — the basics for a first visit.
- Station food and ekiben (station bento)Where and when to find ekiben (station bento) before it sells out, etiquette for eating on board, how standing soba and udon stalls work, and where to find souvenirs sold inside the station.
- Soraben and airport diningA guide to what soraben means and how it differs from ekiben, whether to buy before or after security, etiquette for eating on board, airport restaurants, and things to check before buying food souvenirs to take home.
Dishes in the same style
- Aburafu DonDeep-fried wheat gluten, shaped into a log, is simmered in a sweet-savory broth and set with egg over rice, katsudon-style — a Tome City bowl said to trace to a tofu shop's shelf-stable gluten product, later turned into a bowl dish by a local innkeeper.
- Aburi-zushiNigiri with just its surface flash-seared by torch or hot iron. Unlike Edomae's shigoto curing for keeping, the searing here is done purely for the change in aroma and fat it brings — a relatively recent way of eating sushi.
Ingredients and dishes from this land
Also from Saga
- Ara no SugataniA grouper weighing ten kilos or more is simmered whole in a giant pot over the better part of a day — the showpiece of the hospitality dishes women prepare for guests during the Karatsu-kunchi festival, said to have started as a postwar display of one-upmanship.
- FunankoguiCrucian carp, wrapped whole in kelp, simmers for hours with daikon and other roots until even the bones turn soft — a winter protein source from the lean season on the Ariake Sea, and in Kashima, an offering to the god of good fortune at New Year.
- Futsu MochiPounded mochi is worked through with boiled mugwort and wrapped around sweet bean paste — where much of Japan offers diamond-shaped rice cakes at the Doll Festival, parts of Saga offer this mugwort mochi instead, and it doubles as a snack marking spring's arrival.
- Go DofuSoy milk is set not with nigari but kudzu starch, giving this Arita specialty a softer, glossier bite than ordinary tofu — served with sesame-soy as a side, or with black sugar syrup and soybean flour as a dessert.
- Hoshigaki NamasuJulienned daikon and dried persimmon are tossed with vinegar, yuzu juice, and soy — from Saga's Matsubai district, where curtains of drying persimmons hanging under the eaves mark the fall, and this dish is said to appear alongside New Year's osechi.
- Ika no KakeaeSquid, daikon, and carrot are tossed in a vinegared miso dressing thick with ground sesame — a style of dish found across Japan, but called 'kakeae' in Saga, where fatty mackerel sometimes stands in for squid at autumn festivals.