Rice dishes
Kuri Okowa
Kuri okowa — glutinous rice steamed with chestnut and red bean for autumn shrine festivals
Glutinous rice is steamed with red bean and chestnut on top — sometimes shaped into a cone for shrine offerings, and said to be an essential gift for guests at the autumn 'kunchi' festivals held across Saga.
- Origin: Saga
- About 910 km west of Tokyo
Lineage
What it's made of
Glutinous rice is steamed with chestnuts and red beans folded in; when offered at a shrine, it's sometimes shaped into cones or triangular rice balls. The dish is said to be indispensable at an autumn festival where new rice is offered to a local guardian deity. Chestnuts dried and lightly pounded, kept in hopes of a victorious outcome, are sometimes used. It's also known by a couple of other local names tied to the word for steamed rice. It was also traditionally given as a standard gift to festival guests.
How it's made
The glutinous rice is washed and soaked overnight. Red beans are boiled once, drained, and boiled again until they reach a slightly firm texture. The rice and beans are mixed, topped with chestnuts, and steamed. Chestnuts dried and lightly pounded as a preserved food are sometimes used as well, and how long it's steamed is said to shape the final texture. Boiling the red beans once and draining them before the main cook is said to be the trick. Its shape is said to matter when it's offered at a shrine.
Why it took this shape
Preparations reportedly begin days before the festival, and it's traditionally been made as a gift for visiting guests. Beyond festivals, it's also eaten at celebrations, and the recipe and flavor are said to vary from place to place. It's described as an essential dish at autumn festivals held across different towns in the prefecture. In one porcelain town it's said to be pressed into a fan-shaped mold before serving. The ingredients and seasoning are said to vary a little from place to place.
Before you go
- How to use a convenience storeA quick guide to choosing rice balls and hot snacks, buying coffee, paying by cash, IC card, or tap payment, using the eat-in corner, and sorting your trash — the basics for a first visit.
- Station food and ekiben (station bento)Where and when to find ekiben (station bento) before it sells out, etiquette for eating on board, how standing soba and udon stalls work, and where to find souvenirs sold inside the station.
- Soraben and airport diningA guide to what soraben means and how it differs from ekiben, whether to buy before or after security, etiquette for eating on board, airport restaurants, and things to check before buying food souvenirs to take home.
Dishes in the same style
- Aburafu DonDeep-fried wheat gluten, shaped into a log, is simmered in a sweet-savory broth and set with egg over rice, katsudon-style — a Tome City bowl said to trace to a tofu shop's shelf-stable gluten product, later turned into a bowl dish by a local innkeeper.
- Aburi-zushiNigiri with just its surface flash-seared by torch or hot iron. Unlike Edomae's shigoto curing for keeping, the searing here is done purely for the change in aroma and fat it brings — a relatively recent way of eating sushi.
Ingredients and dishes from this land
Contrast
- OchagaiRice porridge is simmered not in water but brewed tea — said to have begun with an austerity order from the cash-strapped Saga domain in its final years. The tea leaves it thin and light, and it's said to have fed the many live-in staff of merchant houses.
- Tsugani MeshiFreshwater mitten crab is cooked whole into the rice pot, its flavor soaking through — best from September to December, when the crabs head downriver to spawn, and once favored for gatherings as an easier alternative to butchering a chicken.
Also from Saga
- Ara no SugataniA grouper weighing ten kilos or more is simmered whole in a giant pot over the better part of a day — the showpiece of the hospitality dishes women prepare for guests during the Karatsu-kunchi festival, said to have started as a postwar display of one-upmanship.
- FunankoguiCrucian carp, wrapped whole in kelp, simmers for hours with daikon and other roots until even the bones turn soft — a winter protein source from the lean season on the Ariake Sea, and in Kashima, an offering to the god of good fortune at New Year.
- Futsu MochiPounded mochi is worked through with boiled mugwort and wrapped around sweet bean paste — where much of Japan offers diamond-shaped rice cakes at the Doll Festival, parts of Saga offer this mugwort mochi instead, and it doubles as a snack marking spring's arrival.
- Go DofuSoy milk is set not with nigari but kudzu starch, giving this Arita specialty a softer, glossier bite than ordinary tofu — served with sesame-soy as a side, or with black sugar syrup and soybean flour as a dessert.
- Hoshigaki NamasuJulienned daikon and dried persimmon are tossed with vinegar, yuzu juice, and soy — from Saga's Matsubai district, where curtains of drying persimmons hanging under the eaves mark the fall, and this dish is said to appear alongside New Year's osechi.
- Ika no KakeaeSquid, daikon, and carrot are tossed in a vinegared miso dressing thick with ground sesame — a style of dish found across Japan, but called 'kakeae' in Saga, where fatty mackerel sometimes stands in for squid at autumn festivals.