Rice dishes
Chagayu
Chagayu — rice porridge cooked in roasted tea
Rice is cooked in water steeped with a bag of roasted tea leaves. Born in Iga, where farmland was scarce and rice precious, the extra water was a way to stretch the grain further; in summer some households chill the porridge before eating.
- Origin: Mie
- About 320 km west of Tokyo
Lineage
What it's made of
Chagayu is rice cooked in a generous amount of water flavored with tea. Locals reportedly know it fondly as okaisan. It's said to have grown out of a way to stretch scarce rice by increasing the water, and in the Iga area, where farmland was limited and white rice precious, wheat rice and this tea porridge were reportedly the everyday staple. It's said to be more appetizing chilled in summer, and seasonal additions like sweet potato or corn are sometimes stirred in.
How it's made
Rice is rinsed lightly while a cloth tea bag, locally called a chanbukuro, steeps briefly in the pot's water before the rice is added and cooked together. Once the tea has infused enough, the bag is lifted out with chopsticks and the porridge is left to steam a little longer before serving. Hojicha, roasted senna tea, or homegrown tea are said to work better than green tea, and while it's normally eaten hot, many households reportedly chill it in summer.
Why it took this shape
Chagayu is said to date back far enough that a tea-based porridge called gobo was reportedly eaten at the lodgings after the Omizutori rite at Nigatsudo Hall of Todaiji Temple in the Nara period. In the Iga area, where farmland was scarce and white rice precious, porridge is thought to have taken hold as a way to stretch rice, with tea grown nearby folded into an everyday dish. The Kayumi district of Iinan, Matsusaka, known as a tea-producing area, is said to have eaten it especially often.
Before you go
- How to use a convenience storeA quick guide to choosing rice balls and hot snacks, buying coffee, paying by cash, IC card, or tap payment, using the eat-in corner, and sorting your trash — the basics for a first visit.
- Station food and ekiben (station bento)Where and when to find ekiben (station bento) before it sells out, etiquette for eating on board, how standing soba and udon stalls work, and where to find souvenirs sold inside the station.
- Soraben and airport diningA guide to what soraben means and how it differs from ekiben, whether to buy before or after security, etiquette for eating on board, airport restaurants, and things to check before buying food souvenirs to take home.
Dishes in the same style
- Aburafu DonDeep-fried wheat gluten, shaped into a log, is simmered in a sweet-savory broth and set with egg over rice, katsudon-style — a Tome City bowl said to trace to a tofu shop's shelf-stable gluten product, later turned into a bowl dish by a local innkeeper.
- Aburi-zushiNigiri with just its surface flash-seared by torch or hot iron. Unlike Edomae's shigoto curing for keeping, the searing here is done purely for the change in aroma and fat it brings — a relatively recent way of eating sushi.
Ingredients and dishes from this land
Also from Mie
- AhodakiOld takuan pickle, once its flavor and aroma have faded, is desalted and simmered again in soy sauce, a pantry staple from the Hokusei area. Its name — playfully self-deprecating, roughly "doing a foolish thing" — nods to eating it well past its prime, a frugal way to waste nothing.
- Arame MakiRehydrated arame, a brown seaweed once offered to Ise Shrine, is wrapped several times around sardine or saury and simmered in soy sauce and sugar. The choice of fish shifts by locality along the Toba coast.
- Bon JiruA miso soup packed with seasonal vegetables such as burdock, eggplant, and pumpkin. Following Zen Buddhist practice of avoiding killing during Obon, it skips bonito or dried-fish stock, relying instead on fried tofu and a generous mix of vegetables for its savor.
- ChatsuJulienned daikon, carrot, lotus root, kelp, and fried tofu are simmered in vinegar and sugar, a dish from Asahi town. Its name is said to come from "chatsu," the red-lacquered vessel once used to serve vegetarian temple food, and soy sauce is deliberately left out to keep the dish pale.
- Garagara OroshiDaikon coarsely grated with a bamboo "oni-oroshi" grater is mixed with fried tofu, fish cake, dried sardine, red and white miso, and vinegar. Some areas are said to have once paid it in place of rice tax, and it remains a palate-cleansing side at weddings, funerals, and New Year's.