Tea & drinks ── Nihoncha (Japanese tea)
Ujitawara
Ujitawara — birthplace of the modern green tea method
A tea-producing area within the Uji tea region where, in 1738, Nagatani Soen is said to have devised the aosei sencha method. Credited with laying the groundwork for today's green tea processing, the town is sometimes called the birthplace of Japanese green tea.
- Origin: Kyoto Ujitawara
- By growing region
- About 370 km west of Tokyo
Lineage
What it's made of
In Yuyadani, Ujitawara, in southern Kyoto Prefecture, a tea farmer named Nagatani Soen is said to have devised a new processing method in 1738. Unlike the tea made before it, steaming the new buds, then hand-rolling them over a hoiro drying frame, and drying them, is said to have produced a tea with a vivid green color and a mellow flavor. This method is said to be called aosei sencha. Nagatani Soen's birthplace still stands in the mountain valley of Yuyadani, its old hoiro drying frame said to be spoken of as a place that keeps the memory of the hand-rolling process alive.
How it's made
Combining the three steps of steaming, rolling, and drying is said to have been groundbreaking for its time. Nagatani Soen is said to have passed the technique to tea merchants in Edo, from where it spread nationwide. The basic process behind sencha making today is said to trace back to this method born in Ujitawara. Rolling the leaf by hand over the hoiro frame is said to have taken roughly half a day, a delicate task balancing pressure and heat at the same time.
Why it took this shape
Being situated within Uji, a region known for premium tea, while still needing a way to make green tea more easily and at greater volume, is said to have been the soil that produced this new method. Nagatani Soen's birthplace still stands today, spoken of as the birthplace of Japanese green tea. Ujitawara is a settlement in a mountain-ringed valley with little flat farmland, and the need to devise a simpler method suited to volume production is also said to have driven the innovation.
Before you go
- How to shop in a depachika (department store food hall)A guide to browsing prepared foods and bento, choosing wagashi as a gift with a good shelf life, sampling etiquette, end-of-day discounts, asking for cold packs and wrapping, and finding your way around a depachika floor.
- Enjoying a bussanten (regional products fair)A guide to what's sold at a bussanten (regional products fair), how to find one, when it gets crowded, shelf life and taking food home, and how to fit one around a trip.
- How to use an antenna shopA guide to what's sold at an antenna shop, its restaurant or eat-in counters, its tourist-information role, the cluster of shops around Ginza and Yurakucho, and how to use one before a trip or for last-minute souvenirs.
Dishes in the same style
- Ise-chaA Mie Prefecture tea region said to rank among the country's largest in both growing area and production. Kabusecha in particular, centered on the northern Hokusei area, is said to lead the nation in output, prized for its rich umami and sweetness.
- Kagoshima-chaA Kagoshima tea region said to lead the country in raw tea (aracha) production. While the yabukita cultivar dominates nationwide, Kagoshima grows a wider range of varieties, said to allow tea-making tailored to different regions and demands.
Ingredients and dishes from this land
Also from Kyoto
- Chirimen SanshoChirimen-jako simmered sweet-salty with fresh sansho peppercorns in sake, soy sauce, and mirin — a Kyoto side dish said to have begun as a cook's gift in the mid-Showa era. The peppercorns leave a sharp, fragrant aftertaste.
- Ebiimo to Bodara no TaitanEbi-imo, a striped Kyoto heirloom taro named for its shrimp-like ridges, simmers together with bodara, cod dried in Hokkaido. Gelatin from the dried cod is said to keep the taro from falling apart, while the taro's bitterness softens the cod — a textbook 'deaimon' pairing.
- Fushimi no SakeSake from Fushimi in Kyoto, a district fed by groundwater from the Momoyama plateau. Its water is said to be softer than Nada's, giving a round mouthfeel and gentle, full sweetness that overlaps with the profile recognized under the GI Kyoto geographical indication.
- GanmodokiTofu mixed with vegetables, rolled into balls, and fried. Known in Kyoto as hirousu or hiryōzu, thought to have taken this form through the vegetarian temple-cooking idea of a filling dish made without meat.
- Hamo no YakimonoPike conger, riddled with fine bones, is scored with the skilled honekiri cut and then grilled — teriyaki-glazed or salted — in Kyoto cuisine. Said to have taken root in landlocked Kyoto because the hardy fish could be carried in alive, it is also a festival food for Gion Matsuri, nicknamed the 'hamo festival.'
- Kamonasu DengakuKamonasu, a round Kyoto heirloom eggplant over 10cm across sometimes called the 'queen of eggplants,' is sliced and pan-fried in plenty of oil, then topped with a sweet miso reduced with sake and mirin. It is said to have long been grown on the alluvial fan of Kamigamo.