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Oyogoshi
Oyogoshi — vegetables and mashed taro tossed together like a white-dressed salad
Mashed taro is mixed with sesame and miso, then tossed with vegetables like a tofu-based white salad, minus the tofu — said to trace back some 230 years to a village fire, when survivors ate whatever wild greens they could gather and dress.
- Origin: Saga
- About 910 km west of Tokyo
What it's made of
Vegetables such as taro and spinach are dressed like a tofu-based salad, but with mashed taro standing in for tofu, a substitution said to date back to using whatever vegetables a household had on hand; pumpkin sometimes replaces the taro too, and the taro is mashed more or less finely depending on the texture desired. The name is a local word for a dressed vegetable dish, said to come from women's speech. Today the vegetables and seasoning used are said to vary from one household to the next.
How it's made
Taro is boiled and mashed. Spinach is boiled and squeezed dry. Carrot, burdock, and shiitake are simmered in dashi, then combined with the mashed taro mixed with sugar, mirin, miso, and sesame. Thoroughly draining the vegetables is said to be the key step, and drying the mashed taro the way one dries out boiled potatoes is said to help. Pumpkin is sometimes used as a substitute as well. It's said to be passed down as each family's own particular recipe.
Why it took this shape
The dish is tied to a story about a fire that once burned through a local settlement, after which residents are said to have eaten wild greens dressed together to get by. A festival is still held each year on that date to keep the memory of that time alive, with this dish always served. It's also become a fixture of everyday home cooking across the prefecture. It's passed down as a dish meant to keep alive the memory of what earlier generations went through. It continues today as a dish meant to remember what those generations went through.
Before you go
- How to shop at a supermarketHow to choose prepared foods, sashimi, and packaged sushi, when discount stickers tend to appear, region-only specialties, buying by weight, the checkout and bagging flow, and sampling etiquette at a local supermarket.
- Food for Obon and the harvest moon (tsukimi)A guide to the meat-free shojin ryori and somen served at Obon, and the tsukimi dango offered on the night of the harvest moon.
- At teishoku diners, shokudo, and machi-chukaA guide to the teishoku set-meal format, free rice refills, table placement, and paying at a shokudo-style diner.
Dishes in the same style
- Agonoko UmaniThe roe of egg-bearing flying fish, caught only in early summer, is simmered in stock and soy sauce as an Oki bar snack. Its large grains and dense, sticky texture are prized as a delicacy said to be scarcer even than the fish's flesh.
- Funa MisoCrucian carp is simmered slowly with soybeans for around five hours, then finished in a sauce of red miso and coarse sugar. A freshwater fish dish of the Kiso rivers' lower basin, made with fatty winter carp simmered until the bones soften through.
Ingredients and dishes from this land
Also from Saga
- Ara no SugataniA grouper weighing ten kilos or more is simmered whole in a giant pot over the better part of a day — the showpiece of the hospitality dishes women prepare for guests during the Karatsu-kunchi festival, said to have started as a postwar display of one-upmanship.
- FunankoguiCrucian carp, wrapped whole in kelp, simmers for hours with daikon and other roots until even the bones turn soft — a winter protein source from the lean season on the Ariake Sea, and in Kashima, an offering to the god of good fortune at New Year.
- Futsu MochiPounded mochi is worked through with boiled mugwort and wrapped around sweet bean paste — where much of Japan offers diamond-shaped rice cakes at the Doll Festival, parts of Saga offer this mugwort mochi instead, and it doubles as a snack marking spring's arrival.
- Go DofuSoy milk is set not with nigari but kudzu starch, giving this Arita specialty a softer, glossier bite than ordinary tofu — served with sesame-soy as a side, or with black sugar syrup and soybean flour as a dessert.
- Hoshigaki NamasuJulienned daikon and dried persimmon are tossed with vinegar, yuzu juice, and soy — from Saga's Matsubai district, where curtains of drying persimmons hanging under the eaves mark the fall, and this dish is said to appear alongside New Year's osechi.