ITADAKI ATLAS

Home-style

Oyogoshi

Oyogoshi — vegetables and mashed taro tossed together like a white-dressed salad

Mashed taro is mixed with sesame and miso, then tossed with vegetables like a tofu-based white salad, minus the tofu — said to trace back some 230 years to a village fire, when survivors ate whatever wild greens they could gather and dress.

  • Origin: Saga
  • About 910 km west of Tokyo
Saga

What it's made of

Vegetables such as taro and spinach are dressed like a tofu-based salad, but with mashed taro standing in for tofu, a substitution said to date back to using whatever vegetables a household had on hand; pumpkin sometimes replaces the taro too, and the taro is mashed more or less finely depending on the texture desired. The name is a local word for a dressed vegetable dish, said to come from women's speech. Today the vegetables and seasoning used are said to vary from one household to the next.

How it's made

Taro is boiled and mashed. Spinach is boiled and squeezed dry. Carrot, burdock, and shiitake are simmered in dashi, then combined with the mashed taro mixed with sugar, mirin, miso, and sesame. Thoroughly draining the vegetables is said to be the key step, and drying the mashed taro the way one dries out boiled potatoes is said to help. Pumpkin is sometimes used as a substitute as well. It's said to be passed down as each family's own particular recipe.

Why it took this shape

The dish is tied to a story about a fire that once burned through a local settlement, after which residents are said to have eaten wild greens dressed together to get by. A festival is still held each year on that date to keep the memory of that time alive, with this dish always served. It's also become a fixture of everyday home cooking across the prefecture. It's passed down as a dish meant to keep alive the memory of what earlier generations went through. It continues today as a dish meant to remember what those generations went through.

Before you go

Dishes in the same style

Ingredients and dishes from this land

Everything from Saga

Report a correction