ITADAKI ATLAS

Fried ── Fried dishes

Tonkatsu

breaded deep-fried pork cutlet

Breaded, deep-fried pork served with shredded cabbage. Said to trace to a Western-food restaurant that opened in Ginza in the Meiji era, which took up the cutlet and added touches like shredded cabbage on the side.

  • Origin: Tokyo Chuo
Tokyo Chuo

Lineage

What it's made of

Pork loin or fillet is coated in flour, egg, and panko, then deep-fried to a golden crisp in plenty of oil. The crumb is thick yet never greasy, giving a dry, crackling bite that gives way to a slow seep of meat juice, while the moisture of shredded cabbage and the sauce's tang reset the richness with every bite.

How it's made

A thick-cut piece of pork is breaded in flour, beaten egg, and panko in that order, then fried slowly at around 170°C. Managing the oil's temperature so the inside cooks through without scorching the crumb is the key, and some shops rest the cutlet a few minutes after frying to let the juices settle; shredded cabbage on the side is the standard accompaniment.

Why it took this shape

One account holds that a Western-food restaurant that opened in Ginza in 1895 took up fried dishes typified by the cutlet, adding shredded cabbage on the side and setting the rice on the same plate. In the process of adapting the Western cutlet into a thickness easy to eat with chopsticks, alongside a suitable garnish, today's tonkatsu is thought to have taken its present shape.

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