ITADAKI ATLAS

Seafood ── Fish

Nodoguro

blackthroat seaperch — a deep-red fish nicknamed 'nodoguro' for its black throat

A deep-sea fish nicknamed for the black patch inside its throat. Rich and fatty, served as seared sushi or salt-grilled — ports facing the Sea of Japan's steep seabed land it by pole-and-line and trawl, selling it under regional brand names.

  • White fish

What it's made of

A deep-sea fish nicknamed for the black patch inside its throat, its richness earning it the nickname 'toro of white fish'. Seared as sushi, that fat crisps into extra aroma; salt-grilled, fat under the skin renders out with a sizzle — and the flesh itself is soft enough to fall apart at a touch of chopsticks. It peaks in the depths of winter, when fat content runs highest all year.

How it's made

Taken by pole-and-line or trawl, how it's handled coming up from deep water is said to shape its texture. Because it's so fatty, grilling usually scores the skin first to render off excess fat as it cooks, and for sashimi it's often cut in thick slices along the bone to make the most of that richness. Once landed, it's chilled quickly so the fat doesn't start to break down.

Why it took this shape

The Sea of Japan off Hamada in Shimane drops away steeply close to shore, giving boats short access to the depths this fish favors — a fishing ground said to owe its richness to that terrain. Pole-and-line and trawl fishing built around that advantage made it the centerpiece of the local 'Donchicchi' brand, and it's that steep seabed alone that keeps this deep-sea delicacy within easy reach.

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