ITADAKI ATLAS

Seafood ── Fish

Kinki

broadbanded thornyhead — a rich, deep-red fish from northern deep waters

A deep-red fish from the cold, deep waters of the north, exceptionally fatty and richly flavored when simmered. Living hundreds of meters down, it is caught in only limited numbers, and just a few ports with grounds that deep land it reliably.

  • White fish

What it's made of

A deep-red fish from the cold depths of the northern sea, with a surprising amount of fat in both flesh and skin. Simmered, that fat melts into a rich, glossy broth, and chopsticks sink straight through the tender flesh. Far from plain, its concentrated richness is the whole point. Even dried, it keeps most of its fat, and grilling makes it ooze back out.

How it's made

Living hundreds of meters down in cold water, it's caught carefully by gillnet or longline. Numbers are small and catches limited, so simmering each fish with care is the norm, making the most of its fat to draw a deep stock from the bones as well. The sweet-savory simmering liquid itself takes on that fat, turning rich and heavy.

Why it took this shape

Preferring cold, deep water, it can only be landed reliably by ports with grounds reaching hundreds of meters down, or so it's said. Rausu, facing the waters off Shiretoko, is one of the few places that fits, and the limited catch is exactly what has made it a premium fish. A seabed where cold currents plunge deep is said to be what raises this fish.

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