Kue

A large grouper sometimes called the 'phantom fish' for its scarcity, at its best in winter when it fattens up. Its white flesh carries a surprising amount of fat, and that fat is said to be the source of its intense richness. Raw, it's a melting sweetness; cooked, the flesh firms and the umami sharpens — two very different fish in one. The gelatinous layer under the skin is rich too, melting into a hot pot broth to deepen it further.

It's taken by hook-and-line or longline and shipped live or freshly bled to preserve freshness. Some producing areas ship only fish over five kilograms, judged by how well they've fattened. Efforts to release hatchery-raised juveniles have also grown, so wild and released fish now share the same grounds. Its head and bones yield a fine stock, so even the rice porridge finishing a hot pot carries its flavor.

The ria coastlines facing the Kuroshio Current are a jagged, sheltering terrain said to be ideal for juveniles to hide in. Inlets along that current, like Kashiwajima in Kochi and Kushimoto in Wakayama, have leaned into that geography for both wild fishing and aquaculture, becoming known as leading sources of kue. As long as the coastline stays this jagged, the fish is said to keep finding places to hide.