ITADAKI ATLAS

Seafood ── Fish

Utsubo

moray eel — a fearsome-looking fish eaten deep-fried in Kochi

A fierce-looking fish that nonetheless features in the local cooking of places like Kochi, served deep-fried or seared as tataki. Its tough skin demands skilled prep, and Kuroshio-adjacent fishing towns are where the custom of eating it took hold.

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What it's made of

A fierce, fanged face belies a mild white flesh underneath. Deep-fried, the outside turns crisp and fragrant while the inside stays tender. Seared as tataki, the fatty skin's texture plays off the plain flesh — an easier fish to eat than it looks. Its many, intricately arranged bones mean careful bone-scoring is essential before cooking.

How it's made

Its thick, tough skin makes prep demanding, or so it's said. The standard method peels the skin off entirely before filleting, then fries or sears the meat. With plenty of small bones as well, careful bone-scoring beforehand is what makes it easy to eat. In Kochi, it's also dried plain and lightly toasted as a snack to go with drinks.

Why it took this shape

Towns near Kuroshio-facing grounds have long landed this fish, though its fearsome look is said to have kept many from trying it. Even so, in places like Kochi it took root as a local dish, skilled prep and all, and deep-fried or seared utsubo remains part of the regional food culture today. The rocky ground washed by the Kuroshio is what has sustained its habitat all along.

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