Fermented & preserved
Tofu no Umezuzuke
Tofu no Umezuzuke — firm mountain tofu, charcoal-grilled then steeped in plum vinegar
Firm tofu, a specialty of the mountainous Tsunoyama district, is charcoal-grilled repeatedly and then steeped in plum vinegar for a week to ten days. The vinegar turns it a vivid red, and its saltiness means it's traditionally sliced thin and eaten as a drinking snack.
- Origin: Kochi
- About 670 km west of Tokyo
What it's made of
Tofu steeped in plum vinegar turns a vivid red, and its dense, sticky texture is said to carry a firm, tart saltiness all the way through. Tofu made in the Tsunoyama district is known for its firmness, and this dish is said to be that firm tofu cured in plum vinegar for a week to ten days as a way of preserving it. It is said to have once traded as a costly delicacy, and it remains today mostly a homemade dish made for the household's own table.
How it's made
Firm tofu, well drained, is grilled repeatedly over charcoal, turned often. Letting the surface scorch is said to keep the tofu from taking on its vivid color once cured, so care is taken with the grilling. Once cooled, the tofu is steeped in plum vinegar for a week to ten days, then sliced thin to serve. Trying to force out moisture in a microwave is said to leave it too hard to enjoy.
Why it took this shape
Tofu is said to have reached Japan from China at the end of the Heian period, and in Kochi it is said to have been introduced by a man brought back by the warlord Chosokabe Motochika from his campaign in Korea. The mountainous Tsunoyama district had a strong need for preserved food, and curing firm tofu in plum vinegar is said to have taken root there as a way to extend its keeping. It was not unusual for households to make it themselves as a treat for rites and New Year's celebrations, and locally it is said to be affectionately likened to cheese for its texture.
Dishes in the same style
- Achara ZukeWhite melon, eggplant, and lotus root are pickled in a sweet vinegar spiked with red chili — the name is said to trace to the Portuguese 'achar', carried in through Hakata Bay's old trade, and an odd number of vegetables is used for Obon hospitality.
- AhodakiOld takuan pickle, once its flavor and aroma have faded, is desalted and simmered again in soy sauce, a pantry staple from the Hokusei area. Its name — playfully self-deprecating, roughly "doing a foolish thing" — nods to eating it well past its prime, a frugal way to waste nothing.
Ingredients and dishes from this land
Also from Kochi
- Chate no AemonoChayote, a squash-family vine native to tropical America and known locally as chate, is tossed raw into a light dressing — an autumn home dish in Kochi. A single vine can bear over a hundred fruit, so it's mostly grown for the household or shared with neighbors, and it's especially popular in the mountains where it grows easily.
- Chunichi SobaA local noodle dish from Akaoka, Kochi's Konan City, pairing Chinese noodles with udon stock. Dried baby sardines and shredded kelp are the standard toppings, said to have grown from a shortcut sparing the effort of both udon and ramen kitchens.
- Ginburo ZushiGinburo, a kidney bean grown only for home use in a district of Otoyo Town, is simmered sweet and folded into vinegared rice with root vegetables. Regarded as a bean of long life and good fortune, it's traditionally made for festivals and celebratory banquets.
- GoishichaA post-fermented tea from Otoyo, Kochi Prefecture, made through two stages of fermentation — an aerobic mold fermentation followed by a lactic acid soak. Named for its square-cut, sun-dried pieces said to resemble go stones, it carries a distinctive sweet-and-sour flavor.
- GuruniDaikon, carrot, taro, and other root vegetables are simmered together in a dashi made from dried baby sardines and soy sauce — a winter side dish. The name is said to come from "guru," Tosa dialect for a group of companions, and the dish was long made in bulk and reheated meal after meal.
- Ha Ninniku no NutaGarlic greens are chopped, ground, and mixed with miso, vinegar, sesame, and sugar — a traditional Kochi condiment said to trace back to a Korean import. It's commonly spooned over raw fish like yellowtail in place of soy sauce, and both its name and the fish it accompanies vary by area.