ITADAKI ATLAS

Home-style ── Yoshoku (Japanese Western-style dishes)

Kani Kuriimu Korokke

Crab cream croquette — crabmeat in white sauce, breaded and fried

Crabmeat folded into white sauce, breaded and deep-fried. Traced to the cream croquette that reached Japan in 1887, a line that is said to have split from the potato croquette into a separate menu item around 1895.

  • Fried

Lineage

Kani Kuriimu KorokkeKorokke

What it's made of

Break the breadcrumb crust open and crabmeat spills out of a runny white sauce. Where a potato croquette is crisp outside and soft and starchy within, this one is creamy all the way through the crust, and biting in sends out a rush of hot sauce. The crab's flavor is said to ride on the butter-scented sauce as it spreads, hot enough that it's worth letting it cool a moment first.

How it's made

The usual method is to fold crabmeat into a white sauce made with milk and butter, chill it until firm, shape it into ovals, coat it in breadcrumbs, and deep-fry it briefly at high heat. Because the sauce is so soft, it can burst if the coating isn't tight, so cooks need a quick hand to seal and fry it before that happens, and chilling the shaped ovals thoroughly beforehand is said to matter just as much.

Why it took this shape

One account traces it back to 1887, when croquette — cream croquette — first reached Japan; because dairy processing wasn't yet common, a separate potato-based croquette is said to have spread instead. By around 1895 the two had become distinct menu items, and crab is counted among the fillings that carry on the cream-based line, one still kept on the menu at yoshoku restaurants today.

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