Meat ── Wagyu
Sanuki Gyu
one of Japan's earliest fattening regions for Japanese Black, from 1882
Pedigreed Japanese Black raised across Kagawa, one of Japan's earliest fattening regions — begun on Shodoshima around 1882, with the nickname "Sanuki Gyu" said to have settled in Kyoto-Osaka-Kobe by the 1910s.
- Origin: Kagawa
- About 540 km west of Tokyo
Lineage
What it's made of
Pedigreed Japanese Black raised across Kagawa Prefecture, one of Japan's earliest fattening regions for the breed — begun on the island of Shodoshima around 1882, with the nickname "Sanuki Gyu" said to have settled in the Kyoto-Osaka-Kobe area by the 1910s. Selection today follows set standards for bloodline and fattening period. Strict bloodline management is said to keep the balance of fat and lean from varying much, giving the beef a reputation for consistency.
How it's made
Starting from that early fattening on Shodoshima, producers across the prefecture raise cattle to standards fixed for bloodline and fattening period. Making use of the islands and coastline of the Seto Inland Sea, fattening has continued in a mild climate — and some cattle meeting the standard are later distinguished further under the name Olive Gyu. Fattening and breeding records are kept for each animal, and even across the scattered producing areas of the Inland Sea islands and coast, one shared standard is said to hold quality steady.
Why it took this shape
Fattening beginning early, on Shodoshima in the Meiji era, is read as having pushed Kagawa to the forefront of wagyu-fattening regions nationwide. The Seto Inland Sea's mild climate suiting cattle raising is also read as part of the background. The nickname settling in the Kyoto-Osaka-Kobe area by the 1910s can be read as a reputation that took root precisely because fattening had begun so early. A mild Seto Inland Sea climate and a coastal, island setting well served by shipping are read as having let this region refine its fattening technique early through exchange with other areas.
Before you go
- At yakiniku, shabu-shabu, and hot potGrilling your own meat at yakiniku, swishing thin slices at shabu-shabu, and sharing from the pot — the customs behind each.
- Reservations and queuesFrom phone reservations still being the norm at many shops, to how queues work, seating alone at the counter, and asking a hotel for help.
Dishes in the same style
- Aizu GyuSteers and heifers of Japanese Black raised in the Aizu basin, fed mainly local rice straw — the basin's sharp seasonal swings are said to suit fattening, making it Fukushima's leading brand.
- Awa GyuPedigreed Japanese Black fattened in Tokushima, which gained recognition after being shown at a Tokyo meat market competition in 1962 — said to have a moist, fine-grained texture and modest fat.
Ingredients and dishes from this land
Also from Kagawa
- Aji no SanbaiAji (horse mackerel) is grilled until lightly charred, then steeped in a three-part vinegar dressing sharpened with chili and ginger. The vinegar is said to soften the bones enough to eat whole, and the dish has long served as a summer festival accompaniment to drinks around the Seto Inland Sea.
- Anmochi ZoniA New Year zoni made by simmering daikon, kintoki carrot, and a round rice cake filled with sweet red bean paste in dried-sardine broth, finished with white miso. Said to have begun as a once-a-year treat using sugar, once a costly commodity in the Edo period.
- Ebi Miso JiruSmall shell-on shrimp are pureed with rice rinse water, then simmered with white miso and tofu. Served as part of the roughly 300-year-old sacred sake festival at Uga Shrine in Toyonaka, Mitoyo, where it has long accompanied the shrine's home-brewed doburoku.
- Hage DangoFreshly milled new-wheat dumplings are coated in a simple red-bean paste. Traditionally made around Hangeshō, the early-July turning point when the rains break, as thanks for the season's farm work, and offered to household gods before the family eats.
- Ikanago shoyuA fish sauce fermented from sand lance and salt for six months or more, mainly produced in the Aji district of Takamatsu, Kagawa. It is said to have disappeared for a time before local volunteers revived production around 1998, and it is counted among Japan's three great fish sauces.
- ImotakoOctopus from the Seto Inland Sea and taro are simmered together in a simple seasoned broth. Once reserved for New Year and wedding feasts, it is said to have become an everyday side dish today.