Senbei

Steamed, non-glutinous rice flour rolled thin, then baked and dried until crisp — nothing more. The draw is a hard, brittle snap and the toasted aroma of its browned surface, its flavor shifting widely depending on whether it's brushed with soy glaze or seasoned with salt or sugar. Types named for their locality, such as Soka senbei, exist across the country, with differences in local water and rice said to account for regional taste. The type of soy sauce and how many times it's brushed on changes the flavor's depth considerably, and a shop's own glaze is often said to become its calling card.

Non-glutinous rice is milled, steamed, rolled into thin rounds, dried, and slowly baked over charcoal or on a griddle. Brushing it with a soy glaze and grilling it once more is said to be what gives the surface its toasted color and sheen. Preferred hardness and thickness are said to vary by region, ranging from thin and crisp to thick and chewy. Grilling over charcoal is said to cook it evenly via infrared heat, and shops still insisting on charcoal grilling are said to remain today.

One account holds that senbei has long been distinguished from okaki and arare by its rice: non-glutinous instead of glutinous. Non-glutinous rice has less stickiness and rolls out thin more easily, which is said to have settled it into a flat, thin shape and pushed it toward a savory, snack-like character seasoned with soy sauce or salt. Beyond the classic soy flavor, sweet versions glazed with sugar and spicy chili-laced ones are said to have broadened the range year by year.