ITADAKI ATLAS

Rice dishes ── Sushi toppings

Sayori

halfbeak — a slender, silver-bodied fish with a jet-black belly lining

A slender fish, its back blue-green and its belly a bright silver. Its distinguishing trait is a jet-black lining inside the belly, and whether that's carefully scraped away during prep is said to be where the work shows — a fish said to announce spring at an Edomae counter.

What it's made of

A slender fish with a blue-green back and a silver-bright belly, its plain white flesh said to carry a refined sweetness. Its defining feature is a jet-black lining inside the belly — thought to be an adaptation blocking light from passing through its translucent muscle. A red tip on the lower jaw is another way to identify it.

How it's made

After being filleted into three pieces, the black lining inside the belly is scraped away with the back of the blade or against the cutting board. Left in place, it's said to bring out a fishy edge and bitterness, so how carefully it's removed becomes the mark of the work. Because the fish is so slender, one alone rarely makes a full piece, so it's often butterflied open to keep its shape for nigiri.

Why it took this shape

Its catch runs spring through autumn, with a peak said to fall between March and May, and it's spoken of as one of the toppings that announces spring at an Edomae counter. Because its flesh is thin and spoils quickly, opening it fast before it loses freshness is said to be the basic approach. Eaten with just salt, its sweetness is said to come through, and the work centers on making the most of that plainness.

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