ITADAKI ATLAS

Seafood ── Shellfish and cephalopods

Namako

a sea-floor grazer eaten cold for its crunch, not its flavor

An echinoderm that grazes sand and mud on the seafloor. In season through winter, thinly sliced and vinegared for a crunchy bite and briny aroma; its salted innards are also processed into the delicacy konowata.

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What it's made of

An echinoderm with a cylindrical body, mouth and anus at opposite ends, ringed by twenty tentacles around the mouth. Body color varies by habitat and growth stage into three loose types, reddish, greenish, and black, thought to be variation within the same species, each color working as camouflage suited to where it lives. The body wall is built from collagen and glycosaminoglycans, giving it a distinctive crunchy bite, in season through winter.

How it's made

Living from the intertidal zone down to about 20 meters, it is scooped up from sandy, muddy seafloor using dredge-like bottom nets called keta-ami or kogi-ami. Thinly sliced and vinegared is the standard way to eat it, but it's also processed into konowata, its salted innards, or kuchiko, its dried gonads, so a single animal ends up eaten several different ways.

Why it took this shape

The reddish type tends toward open, rocky or pebbly ground while the greenish type favors sheltered, muddy-sand bays, each color apparently suited to a different seafloor. Turning active and firming up in winter is what sets its season, and that same winter timing carries over into konowata, the processed delicacy long prized as a New Year's treat.

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