ITADAKI ATLAS

Seafood ── Shellfish and cephalopods

Bafun Uni

a small, dark urchin named for resembling horse droppings

A small urchin whose shell shape is said to resemble horse droppings, hence the name. Richer and creamier than murasaki uni, in season winter through spring, often sold preserved in brine rather than alum.

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Lineage

Bafun UniMurasaki Uni

What it's made of

A small urchin, about 4cm across its shell, shaped like a squashed bun and covered in short spines over a dark greenish shell. What's eaten is the gonad, at its best once it fattens back up with reserves after spawning, said to carry a richer sweetness and a denser, creamier texture than murasaki uni. Just before spawning it builds up a bitter compound called pulcherrimine, making that window a poor time to eat it.

How it's made

Harvested by ama and ama-otoko free divers, or by a method called funadori, scooping urchins from a boat with a net or hook while scanning the seabed through a glass-bottomed box. Because the gonad is pulled out the moment the shell is cracked open, freshness is hard to hold, so it's sold fresh but also shipped preserved in brine as shiomizu-uni, or processed into a salted paste, with the form it takes to market varying by region.

Why it took this shape

Because it feeds mainly on shallow-reef seaweed such as sea lettuce and agar weed, waters rich in kelp and other seaweed, like those around Rebun Island, are said to raise especially well-filled urchins. Its gonad swells outside the January-to-April spawning window, and that biology alone is what sets the season for eating it.

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