ITADAKI ATLAS

Seafood ── Shellfish and cephalopods

Mirugai

a giant clam whose long siphon is the part actually eaten

Formally called mirukui, this large clam is eaten for its thick siphon, which extends far beyond the shell, prized raw for a crisp bite and mild sweetness; briefly scalding the surface is said to add a toasty note.

  • Shellfish

Lineage

MirugaiMirugai

What it's made of

Formally called mirukui, this large clam is eaten for its thick siphon, which stretches far beyond the shell and is served raw as sashimi or sushi, prized for a crisp bite and a mild sweetness. Briefly scalding the surface turns the skin's texture toasty and is said to bring out more sweetness than eating it raw — an unusual clam where the siphon, not the body, takes center stage, with the body itself usually simmered instead.

How it's made

It burrows deep into sandy mud, leaving only the siphon poking above the seabed to breathe, and is dug up with dredge nets. Once landed, the shell is cracked open and the siphon separated from the body; scalding and peeling the siphon's skin is said to remove its distinctive off-flavor and smooth out the texture. The trimmed edge of that peeled skin is sometimes chopped and served as a garnish of its own, so how carefully it is prepped shows directly in the result.

Why it took this shape

Shallow inner waters with a wide tidal range, like the head of Tokyo Bay, are said to offer the sandy-mud seabed this deep-burrowing clam needs. Its long siphon, which shields the body deep in the sand, is thought to have developed to suit these calm, wave-sheltered bay environments, since burrowing deeper is also said to keep it safer from predators. The longer the siphon, the better the clam is generally reckoned to be.

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