ITADAKI ATLAS

Seafood ── Shellfish and cephalopods

Bakagai

a clam better known by its polite market name, aoyagi

A clam usually sold under its market name, aoyagi. Its orange foot is shucked and used for sushi nigiri or gunkan rolls, tender with a mild sweetness; its small adductor muscles are prized separately for fritters.

  • Shellfish

What it's made of

This clam usually reaches market under its trade name, aoyagi. Its orange foot is shucked and used raw for sushi nigiri or gunkan rolls, tender with a mild sweetness. Its small adductor muscles, called kobashira, are kept separate for their grainy bite and prized for fritters or mixed rice — a clam that shows two different faces depending on which part is used. Cooking tends to shrink the foot, so it is usually kept raw.

How it's made

It burrows just under the sand of shallow beaches and is dug up by rake or dredge net. Once landed, the foot and innards are separated from the shell, and the foot is shucked and rinsed in saltwater. It is said to spoil quickly, so handling it fast before freshness slips is key to keeping its tender texture. The kobashira are sorted out and shipped apart from the foot, each headed for a different use, prized in particular as tempura filling.

Why it took this shape

A long, shallow, sandy shoreline like Kujukuri Beach is said to offer wide stretches of the soft sand this clam favors. Its habit of clustering just under the surface near the waterline is thought to be why rake-based, beach-digging-style fishing took hold as the local method. The quality of the sand itself is said to make a real difference to how efficient that fishing is, and a storm can shift where the clams cluster overnight.

Before You Go

Report a correction