ITADAKI ATLAS

Processed staples ── Nerimono (fish-paste products)

Itawasa

Itawasa — sliced kamaboko with wasabi

Itawasa is board-mounted kamaboko sliced thick like sashimi and served with wasabi and soy sauce -- a way of eating that's said to have settled in as a soba shop's classic drinking snack.

Lineage

Itawasa

What it's made of

Board-mounted kamaboko sliced a touch thicker than sashimi, served with nothing more than wasabi and soy sauce. It's meant to let the paste's bounce and faint sweetness come through as they are, and some hold that going easy on the soy sauce draws out the flavor best. Cutting it thick is said to be what lets the kamaboko's own bite come through.

How it's made

A good-quality kamaboko is chosen, sliced thick with a sashimi knife, plated, and served with wasabi and soy sauce -- nothing more. Some shops add a decorative cut or two, it's said. How much wasabi goes on, and how the soy sauce is applied, are said to carry each shop's own small conventions.

Why it took this shape

The name is said to combine "ita-kamaboko" (board kamaboko) and "wasabi." Some soba shops are said to serve nothing more elaborate than itawasa and a few other simple dishes alongside their noodles, and it looks to have settled in as a drinking snack within Edo's soba-shop culture. Kamaboko is said to carry a well-balanced set of amino acids, which some hold makes it an easy dish to pair with a drink.

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