ITADAKI ATLAS

Home-style ── Machi-chuka (Japanese-Chinese diner food)

Yurinchi

Yurinchi — fried chicken topped with chopped scallion in a sweet soy-vinegar sauce

Fried chicken thigh topped with chopped long onion and a sweet soy-vinegar sauce. In China the name refers to cooking a whole chicken by ladling oil over it, which differs greatly from the Japanese form, and a study points out that the dish is barely found even in China.

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What it's made of

Chicken thigh is fried plain or in a starch coating, topped with chopped long onion, and dressed with a sweet soy-vinegar sauce. The crisp coating, the scent of onion, the tang of vinegar, and the sweet-salty soy sauce combine, and it stays easy to eat even when cool. At neighborhood Chinese restaurants and izakaya it appears as an ordinary side dish.

How it's made

The basic form is seasoned chicken thigh fried and dressed with the onion sauce while still hot. In China, 'youlin' refers to cooking large pieces, such as a whole chicken, by ladling hot oil over them repeatedly. The Japanese form is cut-up meat that is fried and sauced, so although the names nearly match, the cooking differs.

Why it took this shape

A paper in the journal Kokusai-Joho notes that yurinchi is common in Japan, yet in China, its supposed home, it is barely seen on restaurant menus or in home-cooking books. Asking Cantonese chefs reportedly drew only vague answers, such as that it might be Taiwanese. It reads as a form settled in Japan, where a Japanese idea of sauced fried chicken met the Chinese name 'youlin'. Its restaurant or place of origin is said to be unknown.

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