ITADAKI ATLAS

Home-style ── Machi-chuka (Japanese-Chinese diner food)

Tantanmen

Tantanmen — a Japanese sesame-and-chili noodle soup, adapted from a dry Sichuan noodle snack

Ramen noodles go into a chili-and-sesame soup topped with minced pork — Sichuan's original dandan noodles are a small, brothless dish, tossed rather than served in soup, but Japan's version is said to have been rebuilt as a full bowl of soup noodles.

Lineage

What it's made of

Lean in over the bowl and sesame's toasty aroma and chili oil's sting hit first, followed by the fat and savor of the minced pork topping. China's dandan noodles are a light snack, a small amount of sauce tossed in a small bowl; the Japanese version is said to come with a full measure of soup, built as a complete meal in one bowl.

How it's made

A soup combining sesame sauce, chili oil, and a soy-based stock is poured over stir-fried minced pork, and boiled noodles are settled in. Where the original was a tossed, brothless dish born of not having to carry soup around, the Japanese version is rebuilt as a full bowl of soup noodles, with the balance of chili oil and sesame setting each shop's own level of heat and aroma.

Why it took this shape

One account holds that once a chef from Sichuan introduced a version reworked for Japanese taste, the originally brothless dandan noodles spread nationwide as a full bowl of soup noodles instead. The original's 'no broth' constraint, born of being carried and sold from a shoulder pole, is thought to no longer have applied in Japan — one reason the shape changed.

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