Hot pot & soups
Sumashi Zoni
Sumashi zoni — clear New Year's mochi soup
Round mochi sit in a clear soy-based broth across Shimane, though the details shift by region: rock nori and bonito flake in the east, dried ayu stock in the west.
- Origin: Shimane Matsue
- About 610 km west of Tokyo
Lineage
What it's made of
Sumashi zoni is a clear, soy-flavored New Year soup with round mochi rice cakes, eaten across Shimane Prefecture, though the ingredients vary by region. The eastern version is simple, made with just rock seaweed and bonito flakes, while the west uses dried ayu fish stock and sometimes adds tofu or konnyaku. In the Izumo region, rock seaweed from the Uppurui district of Izumo City is often used, giving the soup, together with bonito flakes, a rich oceanic flavor.
How it's made
The broth's base varies by region and household — some use flying fish stock, others dried sardine or goby stock — and soy sauce rather than salt provides the main seasoning. The round mochi is boiled, not grilled, to soften it, and because simmering it directly in the broth would make it too soft, it is typically boiled separately and dropped into the broth just before serving. White mochi is used only for the first three days of the New Year; from the fourth day, some households traditionally switch to a mugwort-flecked mochi called "tenko mochi."
Why it took this shape
The rock seaweed harvested in the Uppurui district of Izumo City is said to have once been offered as tribute to the imperial court during the Nara and Heian periods, and its reputation is recorded in the "Izumo no Kuni Fudoki," a regional record compiled in the Tenpyo era. Making mochi at home was once commonplace, and pounding it at year's end and New Year is said to have symbolized family togetherness. Now that mochi is no longer a rare commodity, the custom of switching to tenko mochi on the fourth day is said to be fading, though the practice of using round mochi itself continues.
Before you go
- Foods to look for in winterA guide to foods often seen in Japan around winter — nabe hot pot, fugu, oysters, crab, year-end soba, and osechi — with rough pointers for finding them.
- Osechi and zoni for the New YearA guide to the meaning behind osechi's tiered boxes, the regional differences in zoni (square vs. round mochi, clear vs. miso broth), and the nanakusa-gayu custom.
- Setsubun: ehomaki and lucky beansA guide to ehomaki, the uncut sushi roll said to be eaten facing a lucky direction on Setsubun, and to mamemaki, the bean-throwing custom with roasted lucky beans.
Dishes in the same style
- Aichi Miso OdenA pot of sweet red miso sits in the center of the simmering pot, and daikon, tofu, and other ingredients simmered in dashi are dipped into it before eating. While soy-based Kanto-style oden spread in Edo, Aichi is said to have settled on dipping in soybean miso instead.
- Aichi ZoniSquare mochi and mochina, a traditional Owari green, are served in a plain clear broth for New Year — a notably simple zoni. It's speculated that using miso so often in daily cooking is exactly why a clear broth is chosen for this festive occasion, deliberately leaving miso out.
Ingredients and dishes from this land
Also from Shimane
- Ago-yakiAgo-yaki is Izumo noyaki made from flying-fish paste, fire-baked without a skewer. Its crackling surface and refined sweetness make it a favorite travel souvenir from Shimane.
- Agonoko UmaniThe roe of egg-bearing flying fish, caught only in early summer, is simmered in stock and soy sauce as an Oki bar snack. Its large grains and dense, sticky texture are prized as a delicacy said to be scarcer even than the fish's flesh.
- Akagai Garan MushiArk shell clams from Lake Nakaumi are steamed in their shells in a soy-seasoned broth, also known as akagai no kara-mushi. The name 'garan' is said to come either from a slurred 'kara' (shell) or the rattling sound made while rinsing the shells — a dish long kept for New Year's.
- Bakudan OnigiriA large round rice ball is wrapped entirely in lightly toasted, soy-brushed rock nori from Oki — its bold look earning it the name 'bakudan,' or bomb. It travels well in lunch boxes and as an everyday snack.
- Dojo Kenchin JiruLoach is simmered with burdock, daikon, and shiitake in a clear soy broth in Yasugi, said to embody the old saying that one loach is worth one eel for stamina — traditionally eaten after washing the mud off from rice planting.