Hot pot & soups
Azuki Zoni
Azuki zoni — mochi simmered in lightly sweetened red bean broth
Round mochi sit in azuki beans simmered with a light hand on the sugar, closer in taste to a thin zenzai than a dessert. In the Izumo area some households eat a clear zoni on New Year's Day, then switch to this one from the second.
- Origin: Shimane Izumo
- About 640 km west of Tokyo
Lineage
What it's made of
Izumo's azuki zoni simmers red beans lightly sweetened and adds round mochi rice cakes, resembling zenzai or shiruko sweet bean soup in appearance but noticeably lighter in sweetness by comparison. In some areas, families eat a clear "sumashi zoni" with rock seaweed on New Year's Day, then switch to this red bean version from the second day of the New Year onward. Because a single azuki pod yields many beans, the dish is also said to carry a wish for a family's descendants to flourish.
How it's made
Red beans are added to a pot filled generously with water and simmered slowly over low heat. Once the beans have softened to the point of nearly bursting, sugar is added to taste, and a little salt sometimes rounds out the seasoning. Some households add dashi stock while simmering the beans, and sugar is sometimes added again once the soup is served, to individual taste. The mochi is round, as in the clear zoni, and boiling it separately from the soup keeps it from turning too soft to eat comfortably.
Why it took this shape
In the old lunar calendar, the tenth month is known in Izumo as the month when deities from across Japan gather, and at a ritual held during that time called Kamiari-sai, a dish called "jinzai mochi" said to resemble this red bean zoni was served — one account traces the word "zenzai" itself back to that name. Azuki zoni is said to have traditionally been made with the year's first-drawn water, ladled by the household head on New Year's morning, and offered in the same bowl without changing it for the first three days of the year, a practice that still carries a strong sense of ritual offering.
Before you go
- Foods to look for in winterA guide to foods often seen in Japan around winter — nabe hot pot, fugu, oysters, crab, year-end soba, and osechi — with rough pointers for finding them.
- Osechi and zoni for the New YearA guide to the meaning behind osechi's tiered boxes, the regional differences in zoni (square vs. round mochi, clear vs. miso broth), and the nanakusa-gayu custom.
- Setsubun: ehomaki and lucky beansA guide to ehomaki, the uncut sushi roll said to be eaten facing a lucky direction on Setsubun, and to mamemaki, the bean-throwing custom with roasted lucky beans.
Dishes in the same style
- Aichi Miso OdenA pot of sweet red miso sits in the center of the simmering pot, and daikon, tofu, and other ingredients simmered in dashi are dipped into it before eating. While soy-based Kanto-style oden spread in Edo, Aichi is said to have settled on dipping in soybean miso instead.
- Aichi ZoniSquare mochi and mochina, a traditional Owari green, are served in a plain clear broth for New Year — a notably simple zoni. It's speculated that using miso so often in daily cooking is exactly why a clear broth is chosen for this festive occasion, deliberately leaving miso out.
Ingredients and dishes from this land
Also from Shimane
- Ago-yakiAgo-yaki is Izumo noyaki made from flying-fish paste, fire-baked without a skewer. Its crackling surface and refined sweetness make it a favorite travel souvenir from Shimane.
- Agonoko UmaniThe roe of egg-bearing flying fish, caught only in early summer, is simmered in stock and soy sauce as an Oki bar snack. Its large grains and dense, sticky texture are prized as a delicacy said to be scarcer even than the fish's flesh.
- Akagai Garan MushiArk shell clams from Lake Nakaumi are steamed in their shells in a soy-seasoned broth, also known as akagai no kara-mushi. The name 'garan' is said to come either from a slurred 'kara' (shell) or the rattling sound made while rinsing the shells — a dish long kept for New Year's.
- Bakudan OnigiriA large round rice ball is wrapped entirely in lightly toasted, soy-brushed rock nori from Oki — its bold look earning it the name 'bakudan,' or bomb. It travels well in lunch boxes and as an everyday snack.
- Dojo Kenchin JiruLoach is simmered with burdock, daikon, and shiitake in a clear soy broth in Yasugi, said to embody the old saying that one loach is worth one eel for stamina — traditionally eaten after washing the mud off from rice planting.
- Fukinoto MisoButterbur sprouts, foraged along paths and hillsides as spring's first green, are chopped and blended with white or country miso. Its bitterness and aroma make it a favorite with rice or sake, and it keeps well frozen for year-round use.