Hot pot & soups
Hiyashijiru Miso Jitate
Hiyashijiru — a chilled miso soup with cucumber and shiso
A chilled soup from the Chuetsu region, dashi thinned with miso and studded with chopped cucumber and shiso. Devised to stay appetizing through the summer heat, it is said to be eaten on its own or poured over rice or noodles.
- Origin: Niigata Nagaoka
- About 210 km north of Tokyo
What it's made of
Miso is thinned with dashi and mixed with plenty of finely chopped cucumber, shiso and other garnishes, then chilled well for a light, cold soup. The richness of the miso melds with the savor of the dashi, and the crunch of cucumber and the cooling freshness of shiso help it go down easily even when the summer heat has dulled the appetite.
How it's made
Miso is carefully thinned with dashi, and plenty of finely chopped cucumber, shiso and myoga ginger are stirred in thoroughly. It's chilled well in the refrigerator before serving, and while it's enjoyed as a soup on its own, it's also poured over rice or noodles. The mix of garnishes and vegetables varies slightly from household to household.
Why it took this shape
The idea of a light, cold soup that goes down easily even when summer heat has killed the appetite is said to appear in similar forms across the country. In this region, the particular version built on chopped cucumber and shiso in a miso base took firm hold, a piece of household wisdom for getting through the summer heat that is thought to have been passed down in slightly different forms from place to place.
Before You Go
- Foods to look for in summerA guide to foods often seen in Japan around summer — eel on the Day of the Ox, hiyashi chuka, somen, shaved ice, edamame with beer, and hamo — with rough pointers for finding them.
- Foods to look for in winterA guide to foods often seen in Japan around winter — nabe hot pot, fugu, oysters, crab, year-end soba, and osechi — with rough pointers for finding them.
- At Yakiniku, Shabu-Shabu, and Hot PotGrilling your own meat at yakiniku, swishing thin slices at shabu-shabu, and sharing from the pot — the customs behind each.
Dishes in the same style
- Aichi Miso OdenA pot of sweet red miso sits in the center of the simmering pot, and daikon, tofu, and other ingredients simmered in dashi are dipped into it before eating. While soy-based Kanto-style oden spread in Edo, Aichi is said to have settled on dipping in soybean miso instead.
- Aichi ZoniSquare mochi and mochina, a traditional Owari green, are served in a plain clear broth for New Year — a notably simple zoni. It's speculated that using miso so often in daily cooking is exactly why a clear broth is chosen for this festive occasion, deliberately leaving miso out.
Ingredients and dishes from this land
Also from Niigata
- AnboA Chuetsu-region dish of steamed rice-flour dumplings filled with sweet bean paste, pickled greens or eggplant. Similar in spirit to Nagano's oyaki but distinguished by its rice-flour skin, reflecting land suited to rice rather than wheat.
- Echigo misoA red, savory miso from Niigata, also called 'ukikoji miso' (floating-koji miso) because its polished whole-grain rice koji appears to float within the paste. Its style is said to vary across Niigata's Joetsu, Chuetsu, Kaetsu, and Sado districts, each shaped by local climate.
- Fugu no Ko no KasuzukeA rare Sado delicacy in which puffer fish ovaries are salt-cured for two years or more, then aged for a long stretch in Sado's sake lees. Only ovaries processed by licensed fugu chefs are sold, and the practice is said to date back to the Edo period.
- Fukashi NasuA Niigata dish of kinchaku eggplant halved, steamed, chilled and eaten with mustard or ginger soy sauce. In a prefecture among Japan's top eggplant producers, it is said to have been valued as a cooling dish through the summer.
- Hegi SobaA soba from Ojiya, Niigata, that uses funori seaweed, the same binder once used to size thread for the region's textiles, as a noodle binder. It is arranged in small bite-sized portions on a wooden box called a hegi.
- IgoneriA Sado specialty made by simmering and kneading igo seaweed until it sets into a firm sheet, then slicing it thin to eat with ginger soy sauce or vinegar miso. Chewy with a faint sea-breeze aroma, it is said to trace back to Kyushu cuisine carried north by kitamae-bune ships.