Hot pot & soups
Heka
Heka — a sukiyaki-style seafood hot pot in a flat iron pan
Fresh seafood is simmered sukiyaki-style with onion and other vegetables in a flat iron pan called a heka nabe in Ota — its name said to come from the plow blade once used in place of a pot. It's shared after a fishing community's New Year vigil at the shrine.
- Origin: Shimane Oda
- About 660 km west of Tokyo
Lineage
What it's made of
Heka simmers seasonal seafood such as tilefish, flatfish, and blackthroat seaperch sukiyaki-style in a flat iron pan called a "heka-nabe," a specialty of Oda. The soy-based broth is rich and slightly sweet, and once it soaks into the white fish and vegetables, the dish turns surprisingly light despite its hearty appearance. A common way to finish the meal is to add rice and beaten egg to the remaining broth for a porridge-like final course.
How it's made
The dish was once made with nothing but seafood simmered in a sweet soy broth, but in recent years onion, napa cabbage, shimeji mushrooms, and other seasonal vegetables have been added, moving it toward a sukiyaki-style dish that combines the bounty of the sea and the mountains. A defining feature is cutting the fresh seafood into generous, hearty chunks before adding it to the pot; using mackerel instead turns the same style of dish into something called "saba no niugui." Wild boar meat is sometimes used in place of seafood as well.
Why it took this shape
"Heka" refers to the metal blade tip of a plow, and using one in place of a proper pot is said to be the origin of the dish's name. Oda has long practiced "ichinichi ryo," a fishing method in which boats leave port at dawn and land their catch from nearby waters that same evening, and much of the tilefish, flatfish, and blackthroat seaperch used in heka is said to come from this same-day catch. Every year on the night of January 10th, fishermen hold an overnight vigil at a shrine called "miyagomori" to pray for safety and a good catch, and the custom of gathering family and fish merchants to eat heka the following day is said to have been passed down since.
Before you go
- Foods to look for in winterA guide to foods often seen in Japan around winter — nabe hot pot, fugu, oysters, crab, year-end soba, and osechi — with rough pointers for finding them.
- At yakiniku, shabu-shabu, and hot potGrilling your own meat at yakiniku, swishing thin slices at shabu-shabu, and sharing from the pot — the customs behind each.
Dishes in the same style
- Aichi Miso OdenA pot of sweet red miso sits in the center of the simmering pot, and daikon, tofu, and other ingredients simmered in dashi are dipped into it before eating. While soy-based Kanto-style oden spread in Edo, Aichi is said to have settled on dipping in soybean miso instead.
- Aichi ZoniSquare mochi and mochina, a traditional Owari green, are served in a plain clear broth for New Year — a notably simple zoni. It's speculated that using miso so often in daily cooking is exactly why a clear broth is chosen for this festive occasion, deliberately leaving miso out.
Ingredients and dishes from this land
Also from Shimane
- Ago-yakiAgo-yaki is Izumo noyaki made from flying-fish paste, fire-baked without a skewer. Its crackling surface and refined sweetness make it a favorite travel souvenir from Shimane.
- Agonoko UmaniThe roe of egg-bearing flying fish, caught only in early summer, is simmered in stock and soy sauce as an Oki bar snack. Its large grains and dense, sticky texture are prized as a delicacy said to be scarcer even than the fish's flesh.
- Akagai Garan MushiArk shell clams from Lake Nakaumi are steamed in their shells in a soy-seasoned broth, also known as akagai no kara-mushi. The name 'garan' is said to come either from a slurred 'kara' (shell) or the rattling sound made while rinsing the shells — a dish long kept for New Year's.
- Azuki ZoniRound mochi sit in azuki beans simmered with a light hand on the sugar, closer in taste to a thin zenzai than a dessert. In the Izumo area some households eat a clear zoni on New Year's Day, then switch to this one from the second.
- Bakudan OnigiriA large round rice ball is wrapped entirely in lightly toasted, soy-brushed rock nori from Oki — its bold look earning it the name 'bakudan,' or bomb. It travels well in lunch boxes and as an everyday snack.
- Dojo Kenchin JiruLoach is simmered with burdock, daikon, and shiitake in a clear soy broth in Yasugi, said to embody the old saying that one loach is worth one eel for stamina — traditionally eaten after washing the mud off from rice planting.