ITADAKI ATLAS

Home-style ── Gohan no otomo (rice companions)

Tororo

Tororo — grated mountain yam

Fresh mountain yam or nagaimo, grated fine — the more it's ground, the stickier it turns. Thinned with dashi or miso into a soup, or spooned straight over barley rice.

What it's made of

Tororo is fresh mountain yam or nagaimo, grated fine. Grating releases the yam's sticky compounds, and the result pulls into long, clinging threads. The yam's own faint sweetness deepens once dashi or soy sauce is worked in. It's also one of the few starchy foods said to sit easily on the stomach eaten raw.

How it's made

Peeled yam is grated smooth with a grater or grinding bowl, then worked further in the bowl for an even finer stickiness. It's thinned with dashi, soy sauce, or miso and dashi into a soup, or simply spooned over barley rice. Shredded green nori is the aromatic most often used to finish it.

Why it took this shape

In the Edo period, the tororo soup of Mariko post town on the Tokaido road is said to have become famous among travelers, appearing in a Matsuo Basho poem and a Hiroshige print. Because it makes rice go down so easily, it's said to carry the old nickname 'kotozute-jiru' — the soup that speaks for itself. In Nagano's Hokushin region, the custom of eating bowl after bowl of tororo rice at the winter's turning point is said to continue today, with the way it's eaten differing from place to place.

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