ITADAKI ATLAS

Home-style ── Gohan no otomo (rice companions)

Sujiko

Sujiko — salted salmon roe skein

Salmon roe salted with the membrane still holding the eggs together, unlike ikura's loose beads. The stronger salt and the bound texture are said to be what tells it apart from ikura.

Lineage

What it's made of

Sujiko is salmon roe, salted with the membrane still holding the eggs together. Because the eggs aren't worked apart, it doesn't come as separate beads the way ikura does — instead it holds together as a bound mass. Salted plain, its saltiness is more pronounced, and the roe's rich flavor comes through directly.

How it's made

Fresh salmon roe skein is handled carefully so the membrane doesn't tear, then cured in brine or with salt worked directly into it. Skipping the step of separating the eggs makes it, relatively speaking, less labor to produce. It's sliced and served on rice, or later worked apart and reprocessed into ikura, depending on what it's needed for.

Why it took this shape

Records from the Heian period are said to already show salmon roe eaten as a processed salmon product, and an Edo-period text is said to describe salted roe kept as a preserve. At the time, there's said to have been no word distinguishing the bound skein from loose eggs; separating the roe into individual beads is said to have only spread from the Taisho era on — and sujiko is said to preserve the earlier form, from before that split.

Before you go

Report a correction