ITADAKI ATLAS

Seafood ── Fish

Madai

red seabream — the celebratory fish of Japan

The red fish central to Japanese celebrations. Its mild white flesh appears raw, in taimeshi rice, or salt-grilled — wild fish firmed by fast currents and farmed fish raised in calm bays earn distinct reputations by region.

  • White fish

What it's made of

The red fish central to Japanese celebrations, mild and lean but sweet, with a distinct richness in the skin that keeps many preparations from removing it — briefly blanched or seared skin-on instead. Even the bones go into taimeshi rice or a clear soup, giving up their flavor as dashi. In early spring, just before spawning, it's called 'sakura-dai' and carries more fat than at any other time of year.

How it's made

Wild fish raised in fast currents firm up, while farmed fish in calm bays fatten more evenly. Many are bled and rested for a few hours to a full day after ike-jime to let umami develop — often said to taste sweeter a little after catching than straight off the hook. Scaling is done carefully around the fin base so the skin stays intact for dishes meant to be eaten skin-on.

Why it took this shape

The Akashi Strait off Hyogo's Akashi City is known for its fast tidal flow, and the wild 'Akashi tai' raised there is prized as a firm-fleshed premium brand. In contrast, the ria coastline of Uwajima in Ehime offers calm, well-circulated water that developed into ideal ground for farming instead — the same species drawing out opposite strengths from a fast strait on one side and a sheltered bay on the other.

Before you go

Dishes in the same style

All Fish

Ingredients and dishes from this land

Known for it here

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