ITADAKI ATLAS

Seafood ── Fish

Shirauo

icefish — a translucent, needle-thin fish of brackish lakes

A translucent, needle-thin fish, sometimes eaten live or folded into egg. It schools each spring in brackish lakes and rivers, and lakeside towns there have long served it as one of their prized local 'seven delicacies'.

  • White fish

What it's made of

A translucent, needle-thin fish whose look is its most striking feature. Eaten live, it slips smoothly across the tongue; folded into egg, the clear flesh turns into a soft, airy mass. Mild in flavor, it's a fish enjoyed for its own delicacy more than for seasoning. Cooked, the flesh whitens slightly, its transparency fading before your eyes.

How it's made

It schools into brackish lakes and rivers each spring, or so it's said. Eaten live, it's dipped briefly in vinegar-soy sauce; folded into egg, it's barely cooked through to keep its softness. Because the body is so transparent, not overcooking it is the whole trick. It's also fried as tempura, prized there for a light, crisp bite.

Why it took this shape

The brackish Lake Shinji is rich in the plankton shirauo feed on, letting it school densely, or so it's said. In Matsue, this fish is one of the 'seven delicacies of Lake Shinji', a set of lake foods long eaten as local specialties, sustaining the food culture of the towns along its shore. The very mixing of fresh and salt water there is what gives this fish its home.

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