ITADAKI ATLAS

Seafood ── Fish

Kamasu

barracuda — a slender fish best known dried

A slender coastal fish whose watery flesh spoils quickly, so drying it into himono is said to concentrate its flavor. Places able to process the catch near the fishing grounds tend to earn the strongest reputation for their dried fish.

  • White fish

What it's made of

A slender coastal fish whose flesh runs watery and fairly plain. Dried, it loses that excess moisture and concentrates in flavor; salt-grilled, the skin turns crisp while the flesh stays airy. It can be eaten raw, but drying has become the more established way to serve it, largely because of that moisture. It peaks in autumn as the water starts to cool, when it carries a touch more fat too.

How it's made

Because its watery flesh spoils fast, it's typically split and dried soon after landing. A light, overnight dry keeps the flesh tender while concentrating flavor, and having few bones that split easily is part of why the dried-fish tradition took hold here. Recent processing has even found ways to make the bones themselves edible.

Why it took this shape

Facing Sagami Bay, Odawara in Kanagawa sits close enough to its fishing grounds that freshly landed barracuda can be split and set to dry almost immediately. Because the fish spoils so quickly, how fast it moves from catch to processing shapes the flavor, and that speed is said to be why dried-fish making took root locally — the short distance between ground and workshop deciding the flavor almost directly.

Before you go

Report a correction