ITADAKI ATLAS

Seafood ── Fish

Isaki

chicken grunt — a summer fish at its best just before spawning

A white-fleshed fish that fattens ahead of the rainy season, earning the nickname 'tsuyu-isaki'. Served salt-grilled or raw — it moves inshore before spawning, so bay-facing ports see the biggest catch, and the best fat, at that time of year.

  • White fish

What it's made of

Sometimes written with characters for 'chicken fish' because its dorsal spines resemble a rooster's comb, it's at its best in Japan's rainy season. Fish that have fattened ahead of spawning are called 'tsuyu-isaki' — white flesh with an unusually rich, rounded sweetness found only in that short window. It's also known for a high vitamin A content.

How it's made

Its mild white flesh suits everything from sashimi and sushi to salt-grilling, simmering, meunière, and frying. Young fish carry faint stripes that fade with age, and the standard is a simple salt grill that lets the seasonal fat speak for itself. Lightly searing the skin for extra fragrance is another favored touch.

Why it took this shape

It moves inshore ahead of spawning, so bay-facing grounds see heavier landings during the rainy season. Nagasaki Prefecture is said to account for roughly thirty percent of national output, with catches concentrated at that time of year across grounds from the Nishisonogi Peninsula to Goto, Iki, and Tsushima. Having several grounds washed by the same warm current is said to be what sustains that output.

Before you go

Report a correction