ITADAKI ATLAS

Seafood ── Fish

Hiramasa

yellowtail amberjack — a summer fish valued above buri by many chefs

Similar in shape to yellowtail but taller-bodied and flatter, at its best in summer. Strongly migratory, it is mostly taken around Kuroshio-adjacent islands, and some sushi chefs rank its texture above buri.

  • White fish

Lineage

HiramasaKanpachi

What it's made of

Similar in shape to yellowtail and kanpachi but taller-bodied and flatter, at its best in summer. Less fatty than yellowtail, but its firmness and crisp bite stand out, unfolding a refined sweetness with every chew — and some sushi chefs rank its texture above buri. Few fish reach market in winter, making it a summer white-fish standard instead.

How it's made

Strongly migratory, and fish that keep swimming through open water are said to firm up the most. The common handling is pole-and-line capture followed by ike-jime bleeding and shinkei-jime nerve destruction, slowing deterioration — so how carefully it's bled shows directly in the bite. Thick-sliced sogi-zukuri cuts are favored to let that firm chew come through fully.

Why it took this shape

Island waters touched by the Kuroshio tend to have strong tidal flow, an environment well suited to migratory yellowtail amberjack. Around the Goto Islands off Nagasaki, close to the current, boats target incoming fish by pole-and-line — grounds shaped equally by the islands' terrain and the current running past them. The more exposed an island sits to open water, the more its waters serve as a waiting ground for fish on the move.

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