Fermented & preserved ── Tsukemono (pickles)
Takuan
Takuan — sun-dried daikon pickled in rice bran, Japan's everyday yellow pickle
Sun-dried daikon pickled in rice bran and salt — the pickle most identified with the whole nuka-zuke family. Widely credited (among other accounts) to the early-Edo monk Takuan Soho, it takes a different shape in each region depending on the local daikon.
Lineage
What it's made of
Sun-dried daikon, its moisture drawn out, is pickled in rice bran and salt. Lactic bacteria and yeast in the bran bed are said to give it a distinctive sourness and depth of flavor, and it's treated as the pickle most identified with the whole bran-pickling family. Different daikon varieties bring different pungency and fiber, so drying and pickling both vary by region, and so does the resulting color, aroma, and bite.
How it's made
Harvested daikon is sun-dried under the eaves for several weeks until it softens, then layered in a barrel with alternating dustings of rice bran and salt. Weighted down and left to ferment for several months, it develops takuan's characteristic aroma and bite. Some regions add sugar or malted rice to the bran to adjust the sweetness, others smoke the daikon before pickling it — the range of drying and pickling methods runs wide.
Why it took this shape
It is widely credited, among other accounts, to Takuan Soho, an early-Edo Rinzai monk said to have either devised it or simply favored eating it. Sun-drying daikon before pickling it in bran and salt allowed for long storage, and the method is said to have spread nationwide along Edo-period highways. Where a particularly pungent daikon variety is used, the resulting pickle sometimes even earns its own local name.
Before you go
- How to shop at a supermarketHow to choose prepared foods, sashimi, and packaged sushi, when discount stickers tend to appear, region-only specialties, buying by weight, the checkout and bagging flow, and sampling etiquette at a local supermarket.
- How to shop in a depachika (department store food hall)A guide to browsing prepared foods and bento, choosing wagashi as a gift with a good shelf life, sampling etiquette, end-of-day discounts, asking for cold packs and wrapping, and finding your way around a depachika floor.
- Enjoying a bussanten (regional products fair)A guide to what's sold at a bussanten (regional products fair), how to find one, when it gets crowded, shelf life and taking food home, and how to fit one around a trip.
Dishes in the same style
- Bettara-zukeDaikon salted first, then pickled sweet in rice malt and sugar — said to descend from a lightly pickled daikon once sold at Edo's ebisu-kō market. The rice malt gives it a natural sweetness, and it still headlines Nihonbashi's autumn "Bettara Market."
- Fukujin-zukeSeven kinds of vegetables — daikon, eggplant, lotus root among them — diced and steeped in a soy-based marinade. Said to have originated in Tokyo, it's best known today as curry rice's standard side.
Ingredients and dishes from this land
Known for it here
- Known for it here: Tokyo, Nerima
Nerima daikon, notably pungent and slightly bitter, suited itself to drying, and Edo-period contract farmers there prepared daikon specifically for takuan.
- Known for it here: Mie, Chunansei (around Ise)
Takuan made from Mizono daikon, grown in the sunny Chunansei district, is known locally as "Ise takuan."
Contrast
- Chirimen JakoYoung sardine fry, boiled in salted water and sun-dried, with the name shifting according to how far the drying goes. Western Japan tends to call it chirimen-jako, eastern Japan shirasu-boshi.
- Fukujin-zukeSeven kinds of vegetables — daikon, eggplant, lotus root among them — diced and steeped in a soy-based marinade. Said to have originated in Tokyo, it's best known today as curry rice's standard side.
- Furu Takuan no NimonoTakuan pickle left to age until the next year turns sour, so it is desalted and simmered fresh in dashi and soy sauce. Known locally as 'yomokonji' or 'daimyo-ni', it is said to reflect a household habit of not letting an aging pickle go to waste.