Sweets
Renkon Mochi
Renkon mochi — lotus root stuffed with red-and-white sticky rice and steamed
Red and white sticky rice is packed into the holes of Kadoma renkon, a local lotus root, and steamed — a dish for celebrations. The root's holes are said to make it a lucky charm for 'seeing what lies ahead,' and slices are eaten with soybean flour, sweet bean paste, or mustard soy sauce.
- Origin: Osaka Kadoma
- About 390 km west of Tokyo
What it's made of
This celebratory dish from Kadoma City packs red-and-white glutinous rice into the holes of a lotus root before steaming it. The steamed lotus root turns notably sticky, and sliced into rounds it reveals a festive red-and-white cross-section, said to double as a sweet when topped with roasted soybean flour or bean paste. Lotus root, prized as a lucky vegetable for its holes that let one 'see through' to the future, is also used in New Year's osechi, and this dish is said to be a signature way of celebrating it.
How it's made
Peeled lotus root is soaked overnight in rice-rinsing water, and glutinous rice, half of it dyed red with food coloring, is packed into the holes with chopsticks. The cut ends are sealed with foil, and the root is steamed for about two hours, until a bamboo skewer slides through easily. Sliced into rounds and plated, it's said to be enjoyed as a sweet with roasted soybean flour or bean paste, or as a savory dish with mustard-soy sauce or ponzu, its festive red-and-white appearance and sticky texture both part of the appeal.
Why it took this shape
Kadoma's poorly drained soil made it ill-suited for rice paddies but favorable for lotus root to grow wild, and it's said that during the Edo period lotus root was sometimes paid in place of tax rice. Cultivation methods and varieties were revised in the Taisho era, and production is said to have expanded further after the war. Prized as a lucky vegetable whose holes let one see through to the future, its red-and-white coloring is thought to be why it became fixed as a dish fitting for celebratory occasions locally.
Before you go
- How to shop in a depachika (department store food hall)A guide to browsing prepared foods and bento, choosing wagashi as a gift with a good shelf life, sampling etiquette, end-of-day discounts, asking for cold packs and wrapping, and finding your way around a depachika floor.
- Osechi and zoni for the New YearA guide to the meaning behind osechi's tiered boxes, the regional differences in zoni (square vs. round mochi, clear vs. miso broth), and the nanakusa-gayu custom.
- Setsubun: ehomaki and lucky beansA guide to ehomaki, the uncut sushi roll said to be eaten facing a lucky direction on Setsubun, and to mamemaki, the bean-throwing custom with roasted lucky beans.
Dishes in the same style
- Abekawa MochiFresh-pounded rice cake is dusted in soybean flour mixed with sugar. Named for the Abe River, it's said to have been famous among Tokaido travelers as a teahouse specialty and to appear in the travel novel Tokaidochu Hizakurige.
- Iga ManjuSweet bean paste is wrapped in rice flour dough, then coated with dyed sticky rice grains. One account ties the name to the grains' resemblance to a chestnut's spiny husk, and in the western Mikawa region it's said to be offered to Hina dolls at the Doll Festival.
Ingredients and dishes from this land
Also from Osaka
- AkanekoSteamed sticky rice pounded with wheat flour is dusted with sugar and soybean flour — also called hangesho mochi, for the rite marking the end of rice planting. The whole-ground wheat flour once left the mochi brownish, said to resemble a cat's round back and give the dish its name.
- BatteraThin slices of vinegared mackerel and white kelp sheet are pressed together in a wooden mold. A sushi shop in Minami-Senba is said to have devised it in 1891, naming it after the Portuguese word for a small boat because the original version, made with konoshiro, resembled one.
- Beni Shoga TenThin slices of red ginger, pickled in plum vinegar, are battered and deep-fried. The plum vinegar's tang and the ginger's bite are said to suit drinks well, and the fritter appears as a one-sen tempura in Sakunosuke Oda's 1940 novella 'Meoto Zenzai,' evidence of how long it has fed ordinary Osakans.
- Beni-zuiki to Aburaage no TaitanBeni-zuiki, reddish taro leaf-stalks that can grow to 2 meters tall, is soaked in vinegared water to remove its bitterness, then simmered with fried tofu in dashi and soy sauce — a summer obanzai dish. Its spongy cross-section is said to soak up flavor well, and it has been named a Naniwa specialty product.
- Dote YakiParboiled beef tendon simmers for a long time against a bank of miso and mirin piled around the pan's edge like a levee, or dote. Rich and sweet-savory, it pairs well with drinks and is said to be a beloved downtown Osaka food, with many shops concentrated in the Shinsekai district.
- EhomakiA thick sushi roll eaten whole and in silence while facing the year's auspicious direction on Setsubun, the last day of winter. Its origin is not settled, but theories passed down include a game among the geisha quarters and a prayer for prosperity by Osaka's Semba merchant houses.