ITADAKI ATLAS

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Otoro

the fattiest cut of tuna belly, once dismissed and now the most prized

The fattiest cut from a tuna's belly. Once dismissed as spoiling too fast even for a cat to bother with, it's said to have become, with better freezing and changing tastes, the most prized cut of all today — one that calls for its own particular way of being sliced.

Lineage

OtoroMaguro

What it's made of

Otoro is the fattiest cut from a tuna's belly. White fat runs in layers along the grain, and it melts almost the moment it hits the tongue, spreading sweetness. Little of the iron-like character of lean tuna comes through — this is a cut built entirely around the weight of its fat. Its cut face carries a pale pink blush and is said to catch the light almost like marbled beef.

How it's made

When a tuna is broken down, the section of belly with the heaviest marbling is identified and cut out. Because the high fat content makes the flesh soft and prone to falling apart, it's said to call for a thinner, more careful blade than leaner cuts. Some shops lightly sear it to melt the fat before serving, and letting it approach room temperature first is said to help the fat's aroma come through.

Why it took this shape

Before refrigeration, the fattiest cuts spoiled fastest and turned fishy quickest, and are said to have been scorned as 'neko-matagi' — food a cat wouldn't even bother stepping over for. Only after postwar freezer technology advanced, alongside a diet that grew to favor richer fat, did otoro reportedly flip into the most prized cut on the counter from the 1960s on, today often fetching a higher price than either chutoro or akami.

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