ITADAKI ATLAS

Rice dishes ── Sushi toppings

Negitoro

minced fatty tuna scraps mounded on a rice cup, wrapped in nori

Fatty tuna scraps, including meat scraped from the bone, minced fine. It's counted among the standard toppings for gunkan-maki, offering a fat-and-stickiness unity a sliced cut can't give — said to have started as a way not to waste meat left on the bone.

Lineage

NegitoroMaguro

What it's made of

Meat scraped from the bone and other sinewy parts of the fatty tuna too awkward to slice as a cut, minced fine. Beyond the fat's own sweetness, the stickiness that comes from mincing with a blade is said to be the point. Chopped scallion is often mixed in, though some shops skip it. The way it melts and spreads in the mouth is said to be a different pleasure than tuna served as a clean slice.

How it's made

Meat left clinging to the bone is carefully scraped off, then chopped with a blade to cut through the sinew until fine. It's mounded onto a cup of vinegared rice wrapped in nori — the gunkan-maki shape, said to be built precisely so a topping too loose to hold its form doesn't spill. Some shops add chopped pickled ginger alongside the scallion.

Why it took this shape

It's said to have started as a way not to waste the tuna meat left on the bone. Minced meat like this can't keep its shape as nigiri, but a gunkan-maki, with nori holding rice around it, can carry it. Once gunkan-maki was reportedly invented at a Ginza sushi shop around 1940, loose toppings like negitoro became far easier to serve as sushi, and it's now counted among the style's standard toppings.

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