ITADAKI ATLAS

Rice dishes ── Sushi toppings

Kazunoko

herring roe, salted or dried into a bundle prized for its crunch

Herring roe, salted or dried into a bundle. Its crackling texture is the point, and it's said to be an indispensable New Year's food symbolizing a wish for many descendants — bleached to a golden color and nicknamed the 'yellow diamond.'

Lineage

KazunokoNishin

What it's made of

Herring ovaries, salted, with fine roe grains still bundled together in their sac. The crackling texture on the bite is said to be the whole point, and there's a view that seasoning should be kept light to let the roe's own flavor come through. Bleaching gives it a golden color, earning it the nickname 'yellow diamond.' How heavily it's salted is said to be a matter of personal taste.

How it's made

Roe is removed still inside its sac and cured in salt to draw out moisture, then either kept salted or soaked in fresh water and reseasoned. It's sliced while still bundled and served as nigiri or as an appetizer. Unlike salmon roe separated into loose grains, the point here is keeping the bundle intact to preserve that crunch. How much salt is drawn back out is said to shape the balance between saltiness and umami, varying shop by shop.

Why it took this shape

One account traces the name to 'kado,' an old word for herring, with 'kado-no-ko' shifting into 'kazunoko' over time; it's said to have been served at the New Year's table as a lucky food since the Edo period. Because so many eggs in one bundle suggest many descendants, it's said to have spread from the shogun's table to ordinary households as one of the 'three lucky foods,' becoming an indispensable New Year's piece. Herring were once said to arrive in such numbers off Hokkaido's coast that the sea itself turned white.

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