ITADAKI ATLAS

Noodles ── Soba

Tororo Soba

Tororo soba — cold soba topped with grated mountain yam

Soba topped with grated mountain yam thinned with mori-style dipping sauce into a smooth tororo. A mid-18th-century text is said to describe mountain yam being worked into the dough itself as a binder. The dish is said to be built around cold noodles, since heat is said to weaken the yam's characteristic stickiness.

What it's made of

The dish is soba topped with tororo — grated mountain yam thinned with mori-style dipping sauce. Its thick stickiness clings to the noodle, said to make the texture smoother still. On a soba shop's menu it goes by yamakake-soba, one of the standard topped varieties.

How it's made

Mountain yam is grated and thinned with mori sauce to the right consistency, then poured over cold soba. Warming the noodle is said to weaken the yam's own stickiness, so cold soba is said to be the proper base for it. A mid-18th-century text, the Soba Zensho of 1751, is said to already describe using nagaimo, a variety prized for being moist and easy to work as well as clean-tasting, kneaded straight into the dough as a binder.

Why it took this shape

In Edo-period farming and mountain villages, mountain yam growing wild needed no cultivation and was easy to come by, and its binding power made it a handy material besides, it is said. From there, its use is thought to have grown beyond binder alone into a topping poured straight over the noodle as tororo — a spread in use that traces the yam's own reach as an everyday ingredient.

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