ITADAKI ATLAS

Noodles ── Soba

Sunaba-kei

The Sunaba lineage — an Edo soba school whose roots are said to trace back to Osaka

One of Edo's three great soba lineages. Its name is said to trace back to 1583, to a soba shop standing at a construction-supply yard called Sunaba during the building of Osaka Castle. The lineage is said to have moved to Edo once the Tokugawa took power, becoming known for a thin, long, smoothly sliding noodle.

What it's made of

Soba in the Sunaba lineage is also said to run close to the nihachi ratio, prized for a thin, long noodle that slides smoothly down the throat. Some shops are said to vary how the dough is worked depending on the dish — kneading the flour for zaru with egg water, for instance, and the flour for mori with plain water alone.

How it's made

Particular care is said to go into working the water in and rolling the dough out, aimed at a thin, even noodle strand throughout. Through a system of noren-wake branching that has continued since the lineage moved to Edo, shops carrying the Sunaba name spread across the city, passing down both technique and how the dipping sauce is built.

Why it took this shape

The name is said to trace back to around 1583, when Toyotomi Hideyoshi was building Osaka Castle, to a soba shop standing near a construction-supply yard called Sunaba. Once the Tokugawa took power, the lineage is said to have moved to Edo, continuing there as one of the city's longest-running names — including Toranomon Osakaya Sunaba, open since 1872. The story of a lineage born in Osaka and raised in Edo is passed down as the very reason behind its name.

Before You Go

Report a correction