ITADAKI ATLAS

Noodles ── Soba

Izushi Soba

Small servings on white porcelain plates, eaten five at a time

A soba from Izushi, in Toyooka, Hyogo. It is said to trace back to a lord relocated from Ueda in Shinshu who brought a soba maker along, and is served in sets of five small plates made of local Izushi porcelain.

  • Origin: Hyogo Toyooka (Izushi)
  • About 440 km west of Tokyo
Hyogo Toyooka (Izushi)

What it's made of

The noodles trace their lineage to Shinshu-style soba and are laid out thin, a bite or so at a time, on small white porcelain plates. The plates are Izushi-yaki, made locally, and their whiteness is said to set off the buckwheat's color clearly. The broth runs on the sharp side and arrives plate-side rather than in a single dipping cup, so each diner adjusts the seasoning bite by bite.

How it's made

A single order comes as five small plates, usually with condiments like grated yam, egg, or daikon on the side. Finished plates aren't cleared away — they're stacked up in front of the diner, so how many you've eaten stays visibly on the table. The noodles go down easily, and it isn't unusual to see a stack climb well past the first five plates as regulars order more.

Why it took this shape

The story goes that in 1706 the Sengoku clan, relocated from soba-rich Ueda in Shinshu to Izushi, brought a soba maker along with them, since the new lord was fond of soba himself. Serving it on local Izushi-yaki porcelain took hold from the Meiji era on, leaving the region's history of a relocated clan sitting right there on the plate — a lord's own taste, still told as the textbook case of one town's food coming from one man's preference.

Before you go

Dishes in the same style

All Soba

Ingredients and dishes from this land

Everything from Hyogo

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